Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto transmission questions

OPASEN
 Share

Recommended Posts

OPASEN Enthusiast

OPASEN

Posted
Posted

To all you autos out there I have a question.

I dont know if this is normal maybe you can tell me.

In snow mode gear changes are smooth and acceleration is decresed to aid in traction.

In normal mode there is more power but the gear changes are rougher. eg 1st to 2nd is abit clunkyer.

In power mode the gear change is severe with heaps more power occasionaly causeing it to chirp.

My guess is that it is trying to simulate a manual slaming into second especialy when on boost.

I have discussed this with my mechanic and he asures me that ists all normal. I dont know wether to belive him or not. I have already had to change the box thanks to the pevious owner never changeing the transmission fluid. This is now in a box that has done 40k kms. I asked if the bands needed tightening. I was told no..... Am I getting ****ed around or is all this just normal.

P.s can these boxes handle being driven like a manual. I have heaps of mates saying I should drive it that way but I dont want to **** anything up. I dont feel like haveing to buy another gearbox....

Any help is good help thanx guys......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67891-auto-transmission-questions/
Share on other sites
Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

in snow mode the first gear is disengaged.

when my auto changes gears you can not feel the change unless im flogging it.

but even then it would be very rare that i feel the change other than the kick back from power into 2nd.

i drive my auto like a manual and have for the last 25000kms.

when i drive it like a manual (change gears myself) mine most of the time just fishes into 2nd.

but after all i put mine through my gear changes are soft.

maybe in your replacement box someone has installed a shift kit which would make changes rougher and faster.

power mode maxes out rev range but still shouldnt be rough.

id be checking to see if valve body has been modified.

my 2cents worth :P

slideways926 Apprentice

slideways926

Posted
Posted

As slide said, someone may have put a shift kit in your replacement box that you dont know about. I had the auto (which has since been changed to manual cos thats what I prefer), and I used to drive it like a manual with no problems at all.

I have seen some autos drive a bit funny if they are low on fluid, they sort of wind up and then smack into gear all of a sudden.... make sure it has enough in it. If all else fails, drive it like a manual and if it breaks, I still have my auto box in the shed for sale... :(

OPASEN Enthusiast

OPASEN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanx man but given that the box was just replased it should still have all the oil in it. the old box used to whine so loud half of newcastle could hear it. this new one is quiet but still abit funny. to be quite honest i really hope it doesnt break it cost me $1800 for the last one.

Mick Mentor

Mick

Posted
Posted

there is a diagnostic mode that you can run for your automatic transmission, is you do a search you should find the procedure on how to do it .. that will tell you if everything is running ok..

Another thing to do is see if there is another member with an auto that lives close to you and see if you can get a drive to see if its any different..

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted

I've heard of auto beeing picked up (second hand) for as little as $200 - most wreckers just can't get rid of them.

Check out the Group buy section to see if anyone in your area has purchased and installed a shift kit, that will give you a good idea of what quick shifts should be like. The nissan box is a bit quicker than a holden or ford slush box, but your description sound a bit harsh for a standard box.

Personally I like the auto (after the shift kit was installed), catch up with some other autos and ask for a ride to compare yours and theirs.

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

my r32 gtst is stock as appart from krappy k&n filter n cat-back exhaust runnin 10psi AUTO

yes AUTO, i been floggin heaps of manuals eg. r32gtst with gauges allover it got flogged by my stock looking machine , as 4 manual, sorry i havent got time 2 change gears,im more into hanging on 2 the wheel n keeping the car str8 as i boost thru gears

haha i love my auto!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...