Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have searched and read numerous threads regards oil catch cans and am looking for a bit of direction. Most seem to acknowledge that the standard (cheapie) catch cans are nothing more than a can (no internals) and need to be stuffed with a filter (steel wool / scourers etc) in order to actually do what they are supposed to do - seperate oil from air and catch the oil. There are a couple of catch cans (more expensive- such as the Essential and ARC cans) which replace the washer bottle (GTR's only I think) and apparently do all they are supposed to do. These cost around $400-$500, which isn't exactly cheap. I have also seen the air/oil seperators (cylinder type) which fit across the top of the engine (GTR). From what I've been told, you also need a catch can with these to collect the oil. This type of air/oil seprator and cheap catch can would work out to be much cheaper than the expensive unit "which does it all". Question are-

Is this setup better or worse than the expensive catch cans?

Do the expensive ones do everything they claim to?

Apart from reducing octane rating and performance, does oil blow back damage anything?

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi All,

I have searched and read numerous threads regards oil catch cans and am looking for a bit of direction. Most seem to acknowledge that the standard (cheapie) catch cans are nothing more than a can (no internals) and need to be stuffed with a filter (steel wool / scourers etc) in order to actually do what they are supposed to do - seperate oil from air and catch the oil. There are a couple of catch cans (more expensive- such as the Essential and ARC cans) which replace the washer bottle (GTR's only I think) and apparently do all they are supposed to do. These cost around $400-$500, which isn't exactly cheap. I have also seen the air/oil seperators (cylinder type) which fit across the top of the engine (GTR). From what I've been told, you also need a catch can with these to collect the oil. This type of air/oil seprator and cheap catch can would work out to be much cheaper than the expensive unit "which does it all". Question are-

Is this setup better or worse than the expensive catch cans?  

Do the expensive ones do everything they claim to?

Apart from reducing octane rating and performance, does oil blow back damage anything?

Thanks for your help.

I have treid the "expensive, do it all style" and guess what, they are simply "expensive", they don't do it all. The concept of a catch can is to slow the movement of the air down so that the oil has time to fall out of susppension and collect in the bottom of the can. So a bigger can is better than a smaller can due to its ability (space) to slow the air flow down. Some of the larger cans have a number of simple baffles so the airflow has to bend, this also helps the oil to fall out of suspension.

Personally, I have found the cheaper catch cans filled with stainless steel wool to be totally satisfactory. The wool acts as a filter as it makes the airflow bend a lot more than the simple baffles. Spend $90 on the catch can and $5 on a pack of stainless steel wool and spend the saved $300 on something that actually makes the car go faster.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1264052
Share on other sites

Thanks SK,

but tell me - is the oil blow back ( and I'm talking about track work here) damaging or just a pain in the arse. For the sake of a miniscule improvement to the RON rating of the fuel, are they actually worth putting in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1264064
Share on other sites

Thanks SK,

but tell me - is the oil blow back ( and I'm talking about track work here) damaging or just a pain in the arse. For the sake of a miniscule improvement to the RON rating of the fuel, are they actually worth putting in?

A few things to note first;

The blow by goes directly into the engine via the PCV valve when the engine is not under boost. This means you get quite "raw" oily air into the combustion process, but it's not under boost so it doesn't really affect performance. But it does foul up those cold heat range plugs and gunk up the exhaust, depending on how much is actually combusted.

The blow by goes indirectly into the engine via the inlet (between the AFM and the turbo) when the engine is under boost. This means you get quite oily air hittting the spinning compressor, in the intercooler piping and into the intercooler. This is the worst part for me, remember the catch can concept of slowing the airflow and bending it to get the oil out of suspension. As such, the intercooler makes a great catch can, plenty of space and lots of bending. So you end up with an intercooler coated with oil on the inside, and oil is a OK insulator. That means your intercooler no longer functions as efficiently (ie; hottter air).

Then you still get some oily air into the combustion process, hotter air plus lower RON = even more chance of pre-ignition and lower power.

Hope that makes sense:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1264156
Share on other sites

Talk to Nigel at Ice Performance, they make a custom Washer Bottle/Catch Can unit that looked awesome.

Cheers

Pete

Leewah has one on his GTR

Are you sure they are ice's? Sounds a lot like Racepaces, maybe they resell Bens?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1265436
Share on other sites

is it best to completely pack the can with steel wool? or jus place a small amount in there near where the oil enters the catch can?

Fill 'er up:cheers:

PS; I usually stick the stainless steel wool into an old stocking, it makes getting them out easier and stops any small bits of stainless from floating around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1266332
Share on other sites

why hasnt anyone made a cheap ass screw top catch can yet??  theres plenty of cheap sealed hollow ones out but none that can be opened. im tempted to just make one out of pvc piping with a screw top lid..LOL

This is the style I use, just take the filter off the top and fill 'er up. The hole looks small in the photo but is big enough to fit a stocking in and then, one by one, poke in the stainless steel wool. I don't usually remove it, I simply fill it up with 50/50 kero and metho, slosh around and rince with water.

show071.jpg

You can get them with 2 inlets at the top and I have even seen one with a tap on the bottom for draining.:D

For those with bling inclinations you can get them anodised like this fuel swirl pot;

show058.jpg

PS; Thanks to Mick for the photos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1266752
Share on other sites

Are you sure they are ice's? Sounds a lot like Racepaces, maybe they resell Bens?

I do believe he has them fabricated externally.

could be wrong :D

but they are sexy as. Im getting one. Gets rid of the ugle washer bottle :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1266823
Share on other sites

why hasnt anyone made a cheap ass screw top catch can yet??  theres plenty of cheap sealed hollow ones out but none that can be opened. im tempted to just make one out of pvc piping with a screw top lid..LOL

MONZA make them cheap(and shiney). I bought a square power steer can and modified it to be a 100% plumb back catch can it has a removable top, total fitted cost with DIY mods is $102.95, so I now have a budget can which has a drain bung with tap under the car and a removeable top and baffled with s/steel wool stuffed in a stocking which can be replaced by removing 4 hex head bolts....easy as drainage and maintenance.

I'll post pics when I get the film on CD and maybe a DIY using monza p/s can. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68174-catch-cans-again/#findComment-1267172
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...