Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Cap bolt tension?

lukevl

By lukevl,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Luke, cam bracket bolts (in Nissan speak) are torqued to 0.92 to 1.2 kg-mm.

The Nissan R32 manual says start at #1 (front bearing) pair, then #7 (rear bearing) pair, then #2, then #5, then #3, then #4. That's 14 bolts and its the same for RB20/25/26.

:thumbsup:

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted
The installation order is from the middle cam cap and work outwards (total 14 bolts).

Removal sequence is from the outside and work in.

Hope that clarifies.

thats the way i would be doing it aswell....some get it totally wrong and break it in half :) i usually put the middle one on the turn the bolt 3 turns or so,then work outside and continue until it pulls down even

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted
thats the way i would be doing it aswell....some get it totally wrong and break it in half ;) i usually put the middle one on the turn the bolt 3 turns or so,then work outside and continue until it pulls down even

Yep spot on, do it in stages to pull the camshafts down evenly, not just it one hit.

:cheers:

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

I have a Nissan manuals in front of me as well, both the RB26 and RB25 manual says its from the centre out to tighten?

Surely this makes sense, as its the same sequence to what a cylinder head is tightened.

If you went from the outside in, the camshaft could bind and snap. (Technically possible, but realistically unlikely if the head isn't warped and the cam is still pulled down evenly)

Would you like it posted up here?

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Anyone know where I can buy a 'sensitive' torque wrench to do cam caps? I want to change the cams in my SR20, and every hardware and auto store I go to, they dont have torque wrenches which can measure below 40nM. Ridiculous...

lukevl Collaborator

lukevl

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No, 540 degrees is their suggested amount to turn each nut in sequence so you tighten them gradually until they nip up (caps bottom) THEN you tighten them to about 11Nm as per the TORQUE setting in the picture.

I used a little 3/8" drive torque wrench that goes from basically zero to 20 odd Nm. Works a treat.

11 Nm does not feel tight enough but all techo sort of stuff with cam caps are about that figure so I did them up to 12Nm. haha

lukevl Collaborator

lukevl

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just a note for everyone - The above manual for the RB26 has the baffle plates on caps 3&4 but on the RB25 (mine at least) they go on caps 6 and 7. The baffling in the rocker covers are different and that is why the breather hoses come out at a different place. I believe you can't get this wrong anyway because the rocker covers probably wouldn't go on.

At the end of it all just do up the cam caps very gradually so you don't snap the cam!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...