Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im tossing up between a couple of options for turbo/s on my RB26/30 I am currently building. I am considering running a pair of turbos such as these:

GT32 73 Trim .78A/R (externally gated versions)

Turbo specs

As these are non ball bearing turbos, will there be a noticeable difference compared to ball bearing versions in spool time?

Will these be able to flow enough for 400 rwkw through an 3 sp auto? Rest of ancillaries will be up to spec. Or should I just stick to something like a single GT40 BB turbo?

Any help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68518-turbo-options-on-a-rb2630/
Share on other sites

Twin BB 400hp GT25's from garret would do you fine for 400rwkw but a single GT35r with 0.82 exh a/r would possible be pushing close to 2 bar to push out 400rwkw tho? dont take my word for it tho as not to how the GT35r's are with 400rwkw.. waiting for a few people to get there car tuned.... *cough* 55nat

dont forget tho.. if a big single can do the job.. its easier to pay for one turbo and a waste gate instead of 2 turbos or 2 turbos and 2 wastegates... either wat your choice.. personaly i'd prolly go with the big single.. have you looked into a HKS T51R KAI?

Waz

One turbo is always better than two providing the turbo setups (ie 2 vs 1) are both of the same design. I have been through this before. Anyway, a single GT3540 will give you 400rwkW or with your capacity you maybe better of with the GT40 or bigger if you want. Id stick with the first two, probs the GT40. Anyways, there is no excuse for going twin. Garrett make ball bearing turbos that can support 2000hp (GT60, compressor 141mm). You will be happier going single. Cheaper, more efficient (ie boost earlier and more power) and much much easier to service.

Run 8.5-9:1 compression and GT40 and 400rwkW on street fuel and probs + octane booster. Ofcourse if you want to make huge HP....use on of garretts big BBGT turbos.

Please PM your email address (MSN/hotmail if possible) as Id love to hear about your progress.

Good luck

Id stick with the first two, probs the GT40. Anyways, there is no excuse for going twin. Garrett make ball bearing turbos that can support 2000hp (GT60, compressor 141mm). You will be happier going single. Cheaper, more efficient (ie boost earlier and more power) and much much easier to service.

Run 8.5-9:1 compression and GT40 and 400rwkW on street fuel and probs + octane booster. Ofcourse if you want to make huge HP....use on of garretts big BBGT turbos.

Im a fan of the singles...and agree with most of what you said, but boost earlier?

Doesnt it depend largely on the power you are chasing, and also the turbos themselves. Dynamically two 320hp turbos have less inertia then a 600hp turbo, well at least the few examples where i did the calcs seemed to support it.(Based on Garret compressor and turbine sizes) :cheers:

It depends a lot on what else you are doing to the engine, and a big single will likely work great, but twins do have a place and on paper can be more responsive:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...