Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Managed to lose 5th & reverse (selector fork?) at the last drag meet as well as my car sounding supercharged in 1st gear (bearing?).

Anyway, what gearbox's are you using/recomend when a standard GTR one wont do?

Its for an R32 GTS-4 with an RB30DET that will be daily driven, and no I'm not made of money so the Holinger is not an option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68784-gearbox-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Managed to lose 5th & reverse (selector fork?) at the last drag meet as well as my car sounding supercharged in 1st gear (bearing?).

Anyway, what gearbox's are you using/recomend when a standard GTR one wont do?

Its  for an R32 GTS-4 with an RB30DET that will be daily driven, and no I'm not made of money so the Holinger is not an option.

It's only a simple pin broken on the selector rod. It is NOT a sign of gearbox weakness, we get it when the clucth drags (doesn't fully dissengage) and you have to push it to get reverse, enventually it breaks the pin. Replace it and keep using the GTR box until you have enough power and traction to take the teeth off 3rd or 4th gear. Then you have reached the limit of the standard gearbox

The most cost effective upgrade I have found is the Pfitzner (PPG) close ratio dog engagement (replacement) internals for ~$A7K ($US5,500). The Japanese close ratio sets are still synchro and so only provide a marginal improvement. If I remember rightly Theo uses PPG in his 9 second GTR, as well as we use PPG's in the circuit race cars.

www.ppgearbox.com.au

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68784-gearbox-upgrade/#findComment-1276238
Share on other sites

Thanks Sydneykid, was hoping you'd see this :)

Im not far of the power needed to break 3rd gear (371awkw) and plan on doing alot more drag racing next season as well as using sticky tyres so prob only a matter of time. I have a spare gtr box now, so i'll repair this one and see how it goes.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68784-gearbox-upgrade/#findComment-1276310
Share on other sites

Thanks Sydneykid, was hoping you'd see this :)

Im not far of the power needed to break 3rd gear (371awkw) and plan on doing alot more drag racing next season as well as using sticky tyres so prob only a matter of time. I have a spare gtr box now, so i'll repair this one and see how it goes.

Thanks again.

We are well over 400 rwkw and do many more gearchanges and spend longer in each gear in a 20 minute race than the drag car does in 100 passes. We don't have as much traction though, so you may have a little more headroom left. But I would start saving the pennies now:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68784-gearbox-upgrade/#findComment-1276340
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...