Jump to content
SAU Community

just to clear up a few things!!!

Guest two.06l

By Guest two.06l,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mincus Contributor

Mincus

Posted
Posted

Hi Paul,

Just to clear up a few things!!

Why was the car taken to two different workshop's to have basic mechanical and electrical items fitted over the obvious extensive experence at DIRT in the first place ?

Howed you work out the 50hp loss from the first workshops work with the cam gears ? was it power ran before and after on site ? did the torque curve improve at all as a result of this loss?

And do you have any further info about these workshops as it could be handy as i use a workshop in newcastle for my R32GTR ?

Are you using HKS exhaust manifolds ? if so did you buy them new and if you did buy the new have you "touched" them up with a die grinder at all, did you have them coated if so what with ?

DoughBoy Veteran

DoughBoy

Posted
Posted
Are you using HKS exhaust manifolds ? if so did you buy them new and if you did buy the new have you "touched" them up with a die grinder at all, did you have them coated if so what with ?

The HKS manifolds come blended, about the only thing you might need to grind is port matching... but they are already generously sized, similar to the exhaust gaskets. But please sir no more talk of touching as Micheal Jackson is lurking in the thread somewhere.

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Hi Paul,

Just to clear up a few things!!

Why was the car taken to two different workshop's to have basic mechanical and electrical items fitted over the obvious extensive experence at DIRT in the first place ?

Howed you work out the 50hp loss from the first workshops work with the cam gears ? was it power ran before and after on site ? did the torque curve improve at all as a result of this loss?

And do you have any further info about these workshops as it could be handy as i use a workshop in newcastle for my R32GTR ?

Are you using HKS exhaust manifolds ? if so did you buy them new and if you did buy the new have you "touched" them up with a die grinder at all, did you have them coated if so what with ?

The cam gears were bought there and fitting was offered at a good price ( why bother with such a basic mechanical installation when you can pay little money for someone else to get their hands dirty).....the AVC-R was fitted by myself and the other workshop was doing the tuning.

Before and after dyno runs were carried out and ill post them here for all to see.

HKS manifolds were port-matched when i assembled the engine.

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
The cam gears were bought there and fitting was offered at a good price ( why bother with such a basic mechanical installation when you can pay little money for someone else to get their hands dirty).....the AVC-R was fitted by myself and the other workshop was doing the tuning.

 Before and after dyno runs were carried out and ill post them here for all to see.

HKS manifolds were port-matched when i assembled the engine.

cam_gear_comparison.JPG

the blue line is std cam timing

the green line is "MR GTR's" setting

the red line is our setting

pls ignore the overlapping runs (red over pink)...3rd gear

I know which car i'd rather drive....

Mincus Contributor

Mincus

Posted
Posted

Hi Paul,

Thanks for posting the dyno sheet.

Just looking at the sheet, the only real difference i can see between the two power runs is that the one that makes more power (blue line) is a dyno queens power curve as the "MR GTR's" (green line) has a far more linear power delivery which would to me represent a more "real world" performance gain.

I know which car i'd rather drive....

Just a couple more things!

i wonder what is your definition of "built by myself"?

Did you personally port, polish, surface grind and seat the valves on the head which is being used on the current engine? And did "you" balance the crank ?

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Hi Paul,

Thanks for posting the dyno sheet.

Just looking at the sheet, the only real difference i can see between the two power runs is that the one that makes more power (blue line) is a dyno queens power curve as the "MR GTR's" (green line) has a far more linear power delivery which would to me represent a more "real world" performance gain.

I know which car i'd rather drive....

Just a couple more things!

i wonder what is your definition of "built by myself"?

Did you personally port, polish, surface grind and seat the valves on the head which is being used on the current engine? And did "you" balance the crank ?

the blue line is standard cam timing you wanker!

did you bother to look at the torque curve???

if you think that the green line is more linear than the red line(my setting) you are more stupid than i first gave you credit for!

Mincus Contributor

Mincus

Posted
Posted

Ha ha ha ha :rofl:

Yes Paul it is true that i can not read dyno sheets ! Credit to your (red line) power curve.

Another thing i can't understand is why you don't answer all my questions ?

So here's 3 more for ya,

1. Did you buy the exhuast manifolds that are on your car and 2530's from that workshop that fitted your cam gears ?

2. Is the SDT on the dyno sheet an abbreviation of the name of the workshop ?

3. Is it the same workshop that fitted the gears ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...