Jump to content
SAU Community

F.S. Custom Nitrous Oxide Kit (Wet System) *price is VERY Neg!*

vxtcy
 Share

Recommended Posts

vxtcy Rookie

vxtcy

Posted
Posted

Nitrous Oxide System for sale.

Set up for a 6cyl or 4cyl vehicle, this nitrous oxide kit is a 6 port direct injection kit.

Meaning, each cylinder has its own injection of nitrous and fuel.

The kit comes with a seperate Carter fuel pump to pump the extra fuel.

All the lines needed are included, including most braieded lines.

The kit has a customisable HP figure. By just changing the nossles, (simple job) Its possible to change the amount of nitrous and fuel injected and increase the HP figure from 50 to 1000hp. (other HP nossles not included, but available from any good NOS retailer)

The kit was installed, tested, dynoed and removed by Hardcore Racing Components in Springwood, QLD. I recommend them for installation as they know quite a lot about this system. However, other professionals wouldnt have any trouble installing it.

I also have a blue genuine "NOS" brand nitrous bottle in great condition, just put new stickers on it and has been used in show cars at Autosalon recently. Photos are available below.

I live on the Gold Coast, QLD. however, I can post the kit and the bottle, but not COD. Payment is needed before the package is sent. Alternatively, I can meet you if your a local and exchange money and the kit then and there, or drive closer to you if you are a little further away if it helps.

$700 for the kit or $1000 including the genuine NOS bottle.

OR the bottle seperatly, $400.

Please feel free to email me or call.

Email : [email protected]

Phone : 0403 198 770

vxtcy Rookie

vxtcy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It comes with 100HP nossles which are genuine NOS brand nossles.

The only pic I have of the kit is what the photographer took from Street Commodores Magazine in the January edition of 2005. So if you can get your hands on a copy of that, you can see some of the kit and the article also has heaps of information on the kit. Its the first feature article.

Installed on a VX V6 Commodore so it would suit a 6 cyl syline perfectly.

what  HP nossles  does it have

do you have a pick of the kit on the car

what car was it on

cheers

always_me Rising Star

always_me

Posted
Posted
Sorry Mirko, I can't see if it's a great kit or not when the only pictures are of bottles.

WTF?

I meant as the 6 port direct injection kit is the best option to get in nitrous systems, not like mine and your kit where 1 nossle mixes both fuel and nitrous.

and why is it ironic mirko is always_me aka wreckedhead

vxtcy Rookie

vxtcy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

two.06l: I have actually answered every email I have recieved.

Maybe your emails arent getting through ?? Please try again.

RX-[7]: Please empty your PM box as it says its full and I cant reply to your PM.

I cant answer my phone during business hours but leave me a message and I will definately return your call.

I have taken some pictures today, everything included in the kit is in these pics.

Hope this helps.

The first picture is a picture of the kit installed in my engine bay. As you can see, its almost totally hidden with the engine cover on.

Thanks.

you would find a buyer if you would answer your phone or reply to your e-mails.
vxtcy Rookie

vxtcy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to clarify, the nitrous kit comes as a compete kit. All parts will be sold together and there will be no seperation of any parts. If you are chasing some of the parts, then buy the whole kit and sell the other parts yourself.

How much do you want for just the nozzles, jets and braided lines from after the solenoids??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...