GTR Mods - What next?

[Guest GTR98]

we're talking about a guy trying to do up his GTR and using EBC and SAFC when he should do it properly and buy a FC and remove the restrictor. Then as funds permit buy a EBC if needs be. I have removed my restrictor had PFC tuned properly and never had a problem. Put an accurate guage on the boost level and showed 1.02Bar from 4500rpm - 7200rpm. Thats pretty good in my books and even better the restrictor removal cost me nothing.

[vspecv]

Originally posted by GTR98

we're talking about a guy trying to do up his GTR and using EBC and SAFC when he should do it properly and buy a FC and remove the restrictor.  Then as funds permit buy a EBC if needs be.  I have removed my restrictor had PFC tuned properly and never had a problem.  Put an accurate guage on the boost level and showed 1.02Bar from 4500rpm - 7200rpm.  Thats pretty good in my books and even better the restrictor removal cost me nothing.

gtr98,

nobodys disagreeing with you,but if were talking about wasting money,u spent money on a power fc u didnt need if ur only running 1 bar.

[Guest GTR98]

If i ever want to do more mods one day then i dont have to sell my SAFC and buy a PFC. I havent butchered my wiring and if i ever want to return the car to standard then i can do it in about 5 mins and im sure i can sell a PFC a lot easier than a SAFC.

Im not going to get into a slagging match with you mate, so i will leave it there. Each to their own. You own a GTR built well, reliable, and great fun to drive. Dont turn it into a piece of crap like so many out there. Do it properly once and never have a problem again.

Cheers

[vspecv]

Originally posted by GTR98

If i ever want to do more mods one day then i dont have to sell my SAFC and buy a PFC.  I havent butchered my wiring and if i ever want to return the car to standard then i can do it in about 5 mins and im sure i can sell a PFC a lot easier than a SAFC.

Im not going to get into a slagging match with you mate, so i will leave it there. Each to their own.  You own a GTR built well, reliable, and great fun to drive.  Dont turn it into a piece of crap like so many out there.  Do it properly once and never have a problem again.  

Cheers

dood wasnt trying to have a slanging match with you,i have 2 gtrs both with power fc,the point i was making was u dont need a pfc or an afc if ur only running 1 bar,standard ecu is more than capable of 1 bar,theres a number of gtrs running around with 1 bar making 240kw plus at the wheels running standard ecu

[Guest GTR98]

And with our crapy fuels one day those motors will go POP.

[vspecv]

Originally posted by GTR98

And with our crapy fuels one day those motors will go POP.

rubbish.

if the tuner knows what he is doing,will run every bit aswell as a pfc car.

i know of atleast 6 or 7 cars that are running 240plus without a problem and running deep into the 11s

[Mick Trainer]

Originally posted by vspecv

dood wasnt trying to have a slanging match with you,i have 2 gtrs both with power fc,the point i was making was u dont need a pfc or an afc if ur only running 1 bar,standard ecu is more than capable of 1 bar,theres a number of gtrs running around with 1 bar making 240kw plus at the wheels running standard ecu

Mine is one of those cars. There are many others that I know of who have run this way for some time now without any dramas. At this range I have seen every bit as much Horse out of a car with standard comp as Power fc. Once you go higher than this then sure you need a PFC, but you also need injectors, different turbos etc. It is a big step, but if you are not looking to go higher then this then in my opinion from what I have seen on the dyno there is no benefit from the power fc.

Just in the guy you choose to do the tuning.

vspecv,

Today is the big day. Tick tock. Good luck. (and I want a ride )

Mick.

[vspecv]

Originally posted by Mick Trainer

Mine is one of those cars.  There are many others that I know of who have run this way for some time now without any dramas.  At this range I have seen every bit as much Horse out of a car with standard comp as Power fc.  Once you go higher than this then sure you need a PFC, but you also need injectors, different turbos etc.  It is a big step, but if you are not looking to go higher then this then in my opinion from what I have seen on the dyno there is no benefit from the power fc.  

Just in the guy you choose to do the tuning.

vspecv,

Today is the big day.  Tick tock.  Good luck.  (and I want a ride )

Mick.

yep todays the day,its finished and ready to pickup,rebuild no2 is complete.

[Guest GTR98]

vspecv

I think i had better come and see you. Can you make my car run deep into 11sec on stock turbos @1Bar. 240kw+ @ all 4 too please, sounds like i have been talking to the wrong people since all they could manage out of my car was 215kw.

[vspecv]

hi gtr98,

i will hook u up no probs,drop me an email and i will fill u in.

215kw miles away.

[email protected]

or [email protected]

dont tell me who tuned ur car i bet i can tell u.

[71LLA]

I'm a newby here so have a few questions relating to info in this thread, my apologies if it has been covered already.

where is this restrivtor you speak of?

how do you remove it?

does the factory ecu then account for the change in boost or do you have to get the car dyno'd/tuned?

i thought the r33 ecu was not programmable, therefore what can be achieved with an r33 by having it dyno'd?

thanks

Steve

[Guest turbogtst]

I am running modified standard cam gears set at 6 degrees advanced on the inlet and 6 degrees retarded on the exhaust, a rechipped R32 GTR ecu in my R33 GTR, 550cc injectors, stock turbo's, cat back exhaust with no cat, making 1.2 bar boost at 3800 rpm. I have had a power fc no better than a rechipped ecu same power results 250 kw at the wheels.

[YO880]

whats the most you can boost the standard R33 turbo's? i had always thought 1bar was the most you would run (unless you had a death wish for your turbos) safely..

so i have only been running mine at 0.9..

[400HP]

Y0880 - On the GTR you can run up to 1.4 but not if you intend to keep your turbos for a long time. I'm running 1 bar and have been safely for a while now and I think anything between 1bar to 1.4 is risky with the standard ceramic wheel.... especially in summer.

71LLA:

where is this restrivtor you speak of?

It is a small metalic ring that sits inside the vacuum hose on the way to the solenoid which restricts your car to the boost it runs stock. Hence the name

how do you remove it?

You pull off the vacuum pipe, and get pliers or tweezers and pull it out and reattach the vacuum pipe. Alternatively cut the part the restrictor is in (you can feel it).. and reattach the pipe.

does the factory ecu then account for the change in boost or do you have to get the car dyno'd/tuned?

The boost is not affected by the ECU here and there is no boost cut at this level... when you remove the restrcitor you get instant one bar boost.

[71LLA]

400HP

You pull off the vacuum pipe, and get pliers or tweezers and pull it out and reattach the vacuum pipe. Alternatively cut the part the restrictor is in (you can feel it).. and reattach the pipe.  

The boost is not affected by the ECU here and there is no boost cut at this level... when you remove the restrcitor you get instant one bar boost.

Thanks for that, can you give me a clue on where *exactly* I can find this vacuum pipe? Seems to be lots of hoses under this bonnet.

And to confirm, once it's out that is it? No need to have anything done to the R33 ECU? Won't it run lean?

[400HP]

Thanks for that, can you give me a clue on where *exactly* I can find this vacuum pipe? Seems to be lots of hoses under this bonnet.

My digi cam is f*cked so I can't take a photo. Basically if you look on the left side of your car above and to the left of the plenum there is like a little gold cylinder about 2cm x 4cm. This is the solenoid. There will be two vacuum hoses going to this. One that goes from the bottom of it and one that goes from the side. If you feel around and squeeze the hose within the first 10 cm of the one that comes from the side you'll feel a part which has a small metal bit. Thats what yoiu need to remove.

Sorry this is the best descreiption I have of it.

And to confirm, once it's out that is it? No need to have anything done to the R33 ECU? Won't it run lean?

Thats right. Remove... done.

[71LLA]

Cheers for that, info is very descriptive I'll give it a go once I get a new battery in.

[BoOsTeD_RB26]

alright people.....I'm seriously confused. I have the car booked in to get the cam gears done but I am stoked to which brand to get. I rang Sub-Zero in Q.L.D yesterday and they advised me not to get the HKS gears because they only last 25 000kms....wtf????

My number 1 problem is that I have people telling me that the HKS gears last forever and that they are really good....but on the other hand I have people telling me not to use them because they are really really shit.

What should I do?

Sorry to be a pain in the arse but I'm not in favour of buying Cam gears and them lasting only 25,000 kms. I need your opinions and info!!

Thanks again