Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Gearbox feels tight, never crunches - old one did sometimes, not very often, the syncros on it were still pretty good... but this one makes a whining noise, already given it back to nissan twice to fix, i think its time i ask for a brand new replacement!

  • 1 month later...

yeah for normal street rubber even in rwd's burnouts are just for show, and the only purpose is to clean crap off the tyres. Unless you are running semi slicks, nittos or slicks a burnout is not needed.

In our GTR R33

we were on the M5 stopped about 8 times to practice launches and have some fun...

My dad was driving so For him its either take off slow or take off on limiter...

He has a good technique which i tend to use now...

8 grand...Ride the clutch till the car starts to move then When your foot is about half way on the clutch Pull it off...(pop it)..This swats the rear end and gets some spin action more screeching sound...

And pulls the car Hard...

Best take off I have ever exerienced...

We got a 0-100km/h

In i think it was 3.7 or 3.9

I have tried other take off's but they tend to bog at anything under 6500rpm...

cheers

ALso....

I know of a friend that had a gtr r32

Mods:

- Full exhaust

- Pod filters

- Clutch had been done (Not sure which one)

he pulled the hoses off the turbo's So he was running max boost

Did several 11.7-11.9sec passes...

But he eventually Killed the motor...

whoever said GT-R's dont run 11's standard... that means you cant drive :wassup:

my mate does consistent 11.7's!!

1.68 60ft

17PSI boost.

New 255 Rubber - street tyre not semi slick.

18" wheels

tein coil overs

standard dump pipe

custom front pipe 3"

hks airpod's with heat sheild

STANDARD ECU . REV LIMITER ETC EVERYTHING FACTORY DEAD STANDARD.

full 3" exhaust 5" hks muffler tip

( i repeat - standard dump pipe(s).)

who said 11's isnt possible?

whoever said GT-R's dont run 11's standard... that means you cant drive :wassup:  

my mate does consistent 11.7's!!

1.68 60ft

17PSI boost.

New 255 Rubber - street tyre not semi slick.

18" wheels

tein coil overs

standard dump pipe

custom front pipe 3"

hks airpod's with heat sheild

STANDARD ECU . REV LIMITER ETC EVERYTHING FACTORY DEAD STANDARD.

full 3" exhaust 5" hks muffler tip

( i repeat - standard dump pipe(s).)

who said 11's isnt possible?

Isn't that boost pushing it a bit hard?

Mums GTR on stock boost with hks dumps and sub-zero exhaust(front pipes back) made over 300awhp. Thing that annoyed me was she was pulling on my 380rwhp gts-t consistently :Oops:

Isn't that boost pushing it a bit hard?

Mums GTR on stock boost with hks dumps and sub-zero exhaust(front pipes back) made over 300awhp. Thing that annoyed me was she was pulling on my 380rwhp gts-t consistently :Oops:

NO!

he has done 15,000klms on 17psi and blown 3 clutches.. so could you imagin how much stress the car has.

he pulled off his turbo's as he is going N1 turbo's now .. the turbo's are like new... shaft play at a minimum.. no chiped wheels etc.

bloody amazing GT-R's!!

I run just over 1bar of boost on my turbos probbaly around 16psi, may spike to 17psi hard to tell... turbos have been going around 40,000ks i believe.

With a dead standard ecu, wouldn't the speed limiter at 180 kick in before the end of the quater mile doing a 11.7? :P

I run just over 1bar of boost on my turbos probbaly around 16psi, may spike to 17psi hard to tell... turbos have been going around 40,000ks i believe.

With a dead standard ecu, wouldn't the speed limiter at 180 kick in before the end of the quater mile doing a 11.7? :P

No, he has a speed cut defender and thats ALL! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...