Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Steve,

My thoughts exactly, what made me think there was a restriction some where in the exhaust is the way the curve flattens out in the top end on the high boost setting.

The power curve can be influenced by the ramp rate a little, but it still looks a little slow getting on to decent boost.

As discopotato once said with this dyno graph... Pumping losses.

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how can yours fry the tyres, when mine makes the same power and everything, 200rpm later is the only difference and i have not one problem with traction. ??

Judging by your nick, youve got a R31. Maybe they have a softer independant rear end than the 33 or much stickier tyres The 33 is slippery, even i get sideways movement in second once i come on boost with a 2530. Count yourself lucky you dont have these issues. First gear is useless. Ive converted back to stock suspension to get some more grip.

how can yours fry the tyres, when mine makes the same power and everything, 200rpm later is the only difference and i have not one problem with traction. ??

HICAS, too high rear spring rate, poor suspension geometry, too stiff/poorly valved rear shocks, worn sub frame bushes, too high tyre pressure......etc

:D

Judging by your nick, youve got a R31.  Maybe they have a softer independant rear end than the 33 or much stickier tyres The 33 is slippery, even i get sideways movement in second once i come on boost with a 2530.  Count yourself lucky you dont have these issues.  First gear is useless.  Ive converted back to stock suspension to get some more grip.

first gear is fine, unless im saveage on a launch. If i am smooth then its totally fine unless im nasty with 1st/2nd gear change then its skating

My rear end is more prone too loose traction than an R33 due to the primative design of the R31 IRS

Ask any coupe owner than tries to get grip, its a mission due too squat and the sheer camber that ends up on the rear causes around 2/3 of the tyre to actually touch the road.

And im only running 245's on the rear, just cheap sumitomo's that in my opinion are very average. Thats on 18's too...

I agree with you SK, some of these guys cars must be shockingly setup as i wouldnt even say my setup is anywhere near what i could be.

still, im at a loss :headspin:

first gear is fine, unless im saveage on a launch. If i am smooth then its totally fine unless im nasty with 1st/2nd gear change then its skating

My rear end is more prone too loose traction than an R33 due to the primative design of the R31 IRS

Ask any coupe owner than tries to get grip, its a mission due too squat and the sheer camber that ends up on the rear causes around 2/3 of the tyre to actually touch the road.

And im only running 245's on the rear, just cheap sumitomo's that in my opinion are very average. Thats on 18's too...

I agree with you SK, some of these guys cars must be shockingly setup as i wouldnt even say my setup is anywhere near what i could be.

still, im at a loss    :headspin:

Maybe you dont have the power you think you have then. What Sumitomos you running, im running the HRZ 11, 255/40/17.

So many variables. I spent alot of time and money setting up my skyline so it didnt do crazy things.

R31 - non IRS too isnt it? IRS has its own challenges. Just being non IRS and no HICAS would give a car massive advantages until you sorted the issues in a car that is equipped with IRS and HICAS.

Making the power is only half the job IMHO.

Sorry forgot to add, just because two cars make the same peak power, run the same boost and come onto boost around the same rpm, doesnt mean they have the same power over the rev range.

Car A at 1 bar may be making 250rwkw @ 4000rpm, car B may only be making 180rwkw at the same rpm and boost. Both may make 300rwkw peak power. The shape of the curve makes a big difference too.

So many variables. I spent alot of time and money setting up my skyline so it didnt do crazy things.    

R31 - non IRS too isnt it?  IRS has its own challenges.  Just being non IRS and no HICAS would give a car massive advantages until you sorted the issues in a car that is equipped with IRS and HICAS.

Making the power is only half the job IMHO.

HR31 has IRS and HICAS

HICAS i still retain, and all of it is very primative.

And i have 270rwkw, there is no doubt about it. Rolls off Race Pace Dyno as such :rofl:

See what it makes next weekend @ AutoSalon... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...