Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Steve,

My thoughts exactly, what made me think there was a restriction some where in the exhaust is the way the curve flattens out in the top end on the high boost setting.

The power curve can be influenced by the ramp rate a little, but it still looks a little slow getting on to decent boost.

As discopotato once said with this dyno graph... Pumping losses.

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how can yours fry the tyres, when mine makes the same power and everything, 200rpm later is the only difference and i have not one problem with traction. ??

Judging by your nick, youve got a R31. Maybe they have a softer independant rear end than the 33 or much stickier tyres The 33 is slippery, even i get sideways movement in second once i come on boost with a 2530. Count yourself lucky you dont have these issues. First gear is useless. Ive converted back to stock suspension to get some more grip.

how can yours fry the tyres, when mine makes the same power and everything, 200rpm later is the only difference and i have not one problem with traction. ??

HICAS, too high rear spring rate, poor suspension geometry, too stiff/poorly valved rear shocks, worn sub frame bushes, too high tyre pressure......etc

:D

Judging by your nick, youve got a R31.  Maybe they have a softer independant rear end than the 33 or much stickier tyres The 33 is slippery, even i get sideways movement in second once i come on boost with a 2530.  Count yourself lucky you dont have these issues.  First gear is useless.  Ive converted back to stock suspension to get some more grip.

first gear is fine, unless im saveage on a launch. If i am smooth then its totally fine unless im nasty with 1st/2nd gear change then its skating

My rear end is more prone too loose traction than an R33 due to the primative design of the R31 IRS

Ask any coupe owner than tries to get grip, its a mission due too squat and the sheer camber that ends up on the rear causes around 2/3 of the tyre to actually touch the road.

And im only running 245's on the rear, just cheap sumitomo's that in my opinion are very average. Thats on 18's too...

I agree with you SK, some of these guys cars must be shockingly setup as i wouldnt even say my setup is anywhere near what i could be.

still, im at a loss :headspin:

first gear is fine, unless im saveage on a launch. If i am smooth then its totally fine unless im nasty with 1st/2nd gear change then its skating

My rear end is more prone too loose traction than an R33 due to the primative design of the R31 IRS

Ask any coupe owner than tries to get grip, its a mission due too squat and the sheer camber that ends up on the rear causes around 2/3 of the tyre to actually touch the road.

And im only running 245's on the rear, just cheap sumitomo's that in my opinion are very average. Thats on 18's too...

I agree with you SK, some of these guys cars must be shockingly setup as i wouldnt even say my setup is anywhere near what i could be.

still, im at a loss    :headspin:

Maybe you dont have the power you think you have then. What Sumitomos you running, im running the HRZ 11, 255/40/17.

So many variables. I spent alot of time and money setting up my skyline so it didnt do crazy things.

R31 - non IRS too isnt it? IRS has its own challenges. Just being non IRS and no HICAS would give a car massive advantages until you sorted the issues in a car that is equipped with IRS and HICAS.

Making the power is only half the job IMHO.

Sorry forgot to add, just because two cars make the same peak power, run the same boost and come onto boost around the same rpm, doesnt mean they have the same power over the rev range.

Car A at 1 bar may be making 250rwkw @ 4000rpm, car B may only be making 180rwkw at the same rpm and boost. Both may make 300rwkw peak power. The shape of the curve makes a big difference too.

So many variables. I spent alot of time and money setting up my skyline so it didnt do crazy things.    

R31 - non IRS too isnt it?  IRS has its own challenges.  Just being non IRS and no HICAS would give a car massive advantages until you sorted the issues in a car that is equipped with IRS and HICAS.

Making the power is only half the job IMHO.

HR31 has IRS and HICAS

HICAS i still retain, and all of it is very primative.

And i have 270rwkw, there is no doubt about it. Rolls off Race Pace Dyno as such :rofl:

See what it makes next weekend @ AutoSalon... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...