Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I have copper ones now. I am currently testing on other skylines.

I think it is safer if using the stock intercooler to run 9-9.5psi which is what the latest ones have been made to.

Please note these are mostly for stock cars. Please check you have the solenoid shown below otherwise this piece will not work.

If you want more boost you can easily drill out the provided piece (You will only need to take a 0.2mm bigger drill bit to make about 1-2psi increase). But it is better to run 9-9.5psi.

Ok You will get instructions I put together with illustrations on how to fit this piece and how to fit a boost gauge. And you wiill get the copper piece for $15 delivered.

Sorry about the price increase but I have broken a lot of small drill bits etc

I do have a few different size drill bits so you can let me know what boost you want to run but it will vary up to 1psi between cars so I want to really be a bit cautious and let you drill it out if you want more boost. The drill bits are only about $2 and you shouldn't break it as you will only be widening the hole a small amount

standardsolenoidsmall6wr.jpg

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok I have copper ones now.  I am currently testing on other skylines.  

I think it is safer if using the stock intercooler to run 9-9.5psi which is what the latest ones have been made to.  

Please note these are mostly for stock cars.  Please check you have the solenoid shown below otherwise this piece will not work.

If you want more boost you can easily drill out the provided piece (You will only need to take a 0.2mm bigger drill bit to make about 1-2psi increase).   But it is better to run 9-9.5psi.

Ok You will get instructions I put together with illustrations on how to fit this piece and how to fit a boost gauge.  And you wiill get the copper piece for $15 delivered.

Sorry about the price increase but I have broken a lot of small drill bits etc

I do have a few different size drill bits so you can let me know what boost you want to run but it will vary up to 1psi between cars so I want to really be a bit cautious and let you drill it out if you want more boost.  The drill bits are only about $2 and you shouldn't break it as you will only be widening the hole a small amount

standardsolenoidsmall6wr.jpg

like this? (on right hand side)

image026.jpg

Yeah I do. I'll be making some more over the next few days.

Most people are happy with 9-9.5psi. Not much gain on stock cooler over this.

I can kind of tailor it to what you want slightly, but there will be a bit of variation between skylines (up to 0.5psi). All the R33s tested on have had a stock intercooler, but I guess front mount shouldn't change things too much, maybe will run slightly higher boost.

I don't recommend over 9-9.5psi on the stock exhaust either.

Pm replied. Sorry, I will get to everyone over the next few days. I've been busy at work etc. I will make up some more over the next few days.

Due to the amount of drill bits I've broken etc and the time involved the cost will be $20 including instructions on how to fit it (and how to fit aftermarket boost gauge), the piece, and clamps.

I think it is still reasonable value as it shouldn't need adjusting (you can widen the hole easily with a drill if you want slightly more boost), looks stock, and allows you to return to stock in a minute. You also don't even need to disconnect any hoses except off the solenoid. You also don't wreck your solenoid by putting a constant earth to it (which I had before), down the track I may use it for an electronic boost control so I don't want to fry it.

I'd like to recommend benl1981 for being a great seller. Organised delivery of the product very fast, printed out the instructions for me in colour, and went the extra mile compared to what most sellers do.

Great, cheap product, with a decent performance gain.

Thanks again,

Tommo.

ey, on the Ebay.com link you say the stock R33 run 4PSI under 4500RPM, is that right? i tought they run 7PSI, or is 7psi @7000rpm? correct me if im wrong.

: Refer to this SAU tech thread

I'm sure you can feel the power increase at 4500rpm.

Cheers,

Tommo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...