Jump to content
SAU Community

So I just fitted Kings and Bilsteins

GunMetalR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

GunMetalR33 Mentor

GunMetalR33

Posted
Posted

After fitting the new springs and shocks the cars feels really good one the road. I used to have problems with under steering cause to front was bouncing so much.

Just a couple of points for others to remeber when doing the same job.

1) Be prepared to spend the whole daying doing it.

2) It is an absolute pain in the a** of a job.

3) the back strut tower bolts are located under the parcel shelf and can be a huge pain to get to depending on your factory sterio option. I have factory splits in the back which had to be removed along with the seats and parcel shelf.

4) if you have a press it would be very handy for pressing on the bottom spring plates to the Bilstein shocks (I had to use the old persuader (hammer).

5) Make sure you have spring tentioners.

The rest is easy but frustrating :)

With this setup the guards are about 10mm from the tyres (with 18's) but may sag a little more. The ride seems to be nice and firm but not to firm...

Sorry if this thread seems pointless, I am still cooling of as I just finished it. I needed to vent :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70450-so-i-just-fitted-kings-and-bilsteins/
Share on other sites
siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

i put in whiteline springs and bilsteins a week ago,

it took about 45 mins to remove the coilovers..

i found it very easy (with a friend who had done it before) to put them him, the only problem was:

as you said, the bottom plate for the springs would not go on for the rear shocks. the fronts went on easy. i called whiteline they said it happens sometimes, and if there was a shart edge they sometimes need to grind it off..

There were no sharp edges, the hole was just too small!!

so we used to dremel to grind the hole out a bit more and them it all went well.

(i did try and use the 'persuader' at first :) )

all up fitting took about 4 hours including removing and refitting the interior.. the whiteline springs didnt need to be compressed to fit in..

GunMetalR33 Mentor

GunMetalR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How much did it set you back? Looking at getting some to do mine shortly.

Well I payed $1000 for the bilsteins and $320 for the kings. I got the kings from capital steering & suspension and the socks from pedders. I had to haggle a bit with pedders to get the shocks for $1000...

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

you can get the whiteline sports pack (springs and shocks) from UAS with sau discount.. comes to around ~1215

but can add up to more once u buy dust covers if needed (i got 4 new ones) which are not cheap, around 20-25 each

NYL83R Proficient

NYL83R

Posted
Posted
I used the low ones which are supposed to lower the car 35mm at most. You have the option of standard, low and super low. But I would not go the super lows because it would cause camber probs....

Yeah i am looking at geting the "low" springs

How does your car sit now? do you have a pic?

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
is the UAS discount only for NSW members? Or being a Vic member, can i apply for the discount?

how you finding the springs/shocks anyway siksII?

cheers.

Hey, im pretty sure its just for forum members too ie. just mention sau and they will see what they can do, speak to john(boss)

the springs and shocks are just what i was hoping for, car rolls less and is a lot easier to drive, ride is similar to standard ride.

only complaint is the front end feels less precise and stuck, although u do get some stabilising understeer before the tail comes out, so plenty of warning..

also when the front/rear comes out they slide nice and smooth, just overall making the car easy to drive, especially on bumpy(ALL) roads

i used to have coilovers and there is no way i could have rounded corners as quick or as stable as i do now..

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
Did you consider just getting new coils made for your coilovers rather than buy whole new suspension???? Much cheaper option. Obviously depends on the condition/quality of the coilovers.

hey, i considered this, but decided against it, i wanted a very good setup, and dont have the knowledge, and dont really trust suspension places to make up a set of springs to suit the shocks that would work as well as the whiteline setup

so basically i wanted a minimum of stuffing around, also my alloy tops were very noisy, so i needed to get rid of them anyway, they annoyed me!

i sold my coilovers for around $500 so in the end it only cost about 800 (1300 all up)

for springs, shocks, strut tops(from a forum member), bump stops, and new dust covers

i installed myself otherwise that would have been maybe an extra 250 or so.

  • 1 month later...
Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

I'm on this path too, already have the Bilsteins installed, although they've been working too hard with the shit springs, so I suspect they'll need a service soon... I just rang Repco for a quote on King Springs low's, and they said $220 for front AND back springs, with $10 freight... that sounds... wrong.

Anyone confirm or deny that pricing? :P

Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

Nah, he said $110 for each set, meaning $220 all up... but maybe its more the truth, considering you feel that $440 would be too expensive.

I gave the Repco on the other side of town a call, they said $161 for the fronts, and the rears weren't in their catalogue. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...