Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of getting HKS adjustable cam gears, but I have a few questions. What's the best price I can get them for? (Sydney) Perfect Run have them for $255 each which seems like a reasonable price.

How hard are they to install/adjust yourself? How do you actually adjust them? How will they affect my power and running of the engine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7056-adjustable-cam-gears/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Jimx,

I'm getting some adjustable cam gears for my 'line too. I was going to get HKS but have been deterred buy a few people who have said the HKS can be unreliable and break too easy due to being made from aluminium.. Apparently they have a habit of wearing the teeth out and the timing slipping. These guys do have very big hp cars so maybe for the average joe like us it would be ok, but I'm going for a set of JUN steel cams sprockets which are only about $60 more than HKS for the set....

Just my 2c...

Brett

Nengun has HKS gear for $185 each.

http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/courses.as...id=57739&page=1

But I've heard on SDU that they aren't too reliable. With only 3 bolts holding it in place, some people have found the gear to slip under load and mess up timing.

Sub-zero have Toda gears for $165 each. They use 5 bolts to hold the gear in place, so it seems like a better bet. I haven't used either product though.

http://www.sub-zero.com.au/engine.htm

I think someone mentioned in another thread that it's about a 10kw increase and the turbo kicks in about 200rpm earlier, both of which are good enough reasons to get them IMO.

What I mainly want to know though is how hard would it be to do myself? Is it simply a case of removing the timing belt and associated covers etc then bolting on the new gears, then replacing everything? How do you set them up exactly? (like which holes go where)

dun u think better leave it to the mechanic, coz if u mess up ur timing, ur valve will hit ur cylinder head n bang goes ur engine...

even if you manage to install em urself, as long as you noted the correct position of the cam before changing it, u still need to tune the timing on dyno anyway....

I've got one on my exhaust cam shaft. If you have a look at my dyno sheet, you'll see it actually causes a dip in the power right after the NVCS (I think that's what it is called) kicks in. I'm not sure how much more power it gave me (if any) - it wouldn't have been much though maybe a few rwkw's.

I'm not sure what effect it would have on the intake camshaft, but you can buy them. I can't see it screwing up anything, but don't blame me if it does.

Hi Guys,

We have been discussing similar questions on a camshaft thread. The cheapest price for HKS gears is from nengun at $185 per gear plus shipping. If you can organise a group buy he can fit 5 sets for one shipping cost, bring the price to about $200 each landed. I've not heard of anyone using the Toda gears, but I would imagine they are just as good as HKS, just not a flashy looking.

The best way to use the gear is as a set, inlet and exhaust. The best results for power is if the exhuast is retarded 4deg. from the inlet cam. There is no point getting a mechanic to fit them unless your planning on having them just for looks, you will need the car to be on a dyno to get real results. It's not something you should try yourself unless your experienced with timing and have a good timing light.

If you still have factory cams then 10-15kW is probably all the power difference you will get, but you can get improved torque and turbo response with them. If you have programmable management then the dip around the NVCS shouldn't occur with a competant tuner.

One of the guys on our thread will be getting his car tuned on Monday and posting the results, so stay tuned.

See'ya:burnout:

If you where going to put one on the intlet would you disable the variable cam timing? I am just thinking if you advance with a cam gear you would get a summed advance with the variable timing, and it would negate the retard from the variable timing. I have only heard of exhaust cam gears on R33s. Anxiously awaiting your results if you give it a go.

Edit: Should have read the cam post then I would know GT N1K is trying it tomorrow :D

For RB25DET's, its not possible to fit a cam gear onto intake shaft without remving VCT timing sensors and possibily swapping the intake cam shaft for a non-VCT item. So people with stock cams only need one adj cam gear, for exhaust cam.

b2barker and Gradenko,

Yes thats right, adding the inlet cam gear will negate the effect of the NVCS, which is what most of us are aiming for, but stock cams are fine I believe, can anyone confirm?. Inlet and exhaust cam gears will provide the best results, but that is not to say that exhaust gear alone wont help.

Yes GT N1K is giving it a go tommorow, we eagerly await his results. There is also discussion on the reliability of the HKS gears and other gear manufacturers. It would be good if you guys have anything to contribute on these issues.

See'ya:burnout:

Hi Guys,

YO880,

A set of adjustable cams gears will work great with a Power FC, they will add 10-15kW on factroy cams, with aftermarket cams with larger separation the difference will be huge. Do note that it will remove the NVCS, variable cam timing.

MIC33R,

With an SAFC there is not much that you can do about the dip, so they didn't stuff up. You will see some minor improvement with the exhaust gear, and unless you get aftermarket management, probably not worth doing the inlet cam gear.

400HP,

Those prices sound about right, but if you organise a group buy then the freight can be split. Check out sub-zero though, they have HKS and Toda at very good prices. I haven't had anyone actually say that they have had first hand experience with the HKS gear breaking but there are plenty of rumors.

Everyone,

I am organising a group buy in Perth (5 sets), as even if I only get them for myself we have enough cars to put them in. I should find out on Moday what deal Sub-zero can do and then let you all know. It's too difficult to worry about shipping them around the different states, so I'd encourage you to do a group buy with some of your mates.

See'ya

:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...