Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For a reliable street setup:

1. For the argument sake, if you could get a RB26 head at the same price as the R32 RB25de head which one would you use and why?

2. What compression ratio would you aim for and (if not stock) what pistons and head gasket would you use to achive that?

3. What would be a reasonable power target?

:D

Suggestions follow;

1. The RB26 is vastly superior, it has solid followers, better valve springs, cheaper and easier to get cams, no VVT, best inlet manifold design, multiple throttle butterflies, better water jacket design, better valves, higher oil flow return to the sump ........ I think you get the idea.

2. Compression ratio is 9 to 1. We use JE pistons and standard Nissan head gasket. Obviously the block is O'ringed and we use ARP head studs.

3. With good rods we are up to 950 bhp (that's using an annealed copper head gasket though).

Hope that helps:cheers:

Thanks SK! do you thinkif we use the 2835's a 7500rpm limiter will be high enough?

also do you have any idea when boost may come on with say 270 deg pro cams.

of coarse it will have all the other stuff done such as porting and oil pump, all the usual build up parts.

Thanks SK! do you thinkif we use the 2835's a 7500rpm limiter will be high enough?

also do you have any idea when boost may come on with say 270 deg pro cams.

of coarse it will have all the other stuff done such as porting and oil pump, all the usual build up parts.

We have never used 2835's on an RB30, far too big for our applications. The numbers say 9,000 rpm on an RB26 is equivalent in airflow to 7,500 on an RB31. So they should be fine.

My own RB31 uses 272/280 Jun 10.8 mm lift cams for circuit racing, the 3.1 litres lets you run pretty bag cams that would kill a 2.5/2.6 litre.

:P

Thanks! the whole topic of which one was started as the Neo has VVT and some other mumbo i'm not to sure about.

Sk to keep costs done could a use s stock GTR head with stock valve train execept for a set of drop in pon cams with the new RB 30 bottom end and have the rev limiter set at 7500,would that be ok for 400RWKW? with good reliability?

just as we want to get the car running first, and then we can build a big head for it later.

i was also thinking that since he wants to use the car for club racing, it maybe better that he uses our GT-ss turbos to make an easy 350WRKW with the 7500rpm rev limiter.

do you thinkthis set up would work or would it suffer to much up top?

Cheers Ben

With the exact same setup on the 3ltr as the 2.6ltr the 3ltr will ALWAYS make the peak power earlier. IF it has maxed out the airflow for a given boost level.

What I'm saying is if you want it to make peak power around 7000rpm then setup the motor (cams and exhaust turbine a/r) as if it were an RB26 reving to and making its peak power around 8100rpm. For an RB26 to make peak power up around 8100rpm you will require larger than stock cams, and may need larger exhaust a/r's etc.

Thanks! the whole topic of which one was started as the Neo has VVT and some other mumbo i'm not to sure about.

Sk to keep costs done could a use s stock GTR head with stock valve train execept for a set of drop in pon cams with the new RB 30 bottom end and have the rev limiter set at 7500,would that be ok for 400RWKW? with good reliability?

just as we want to get the car running first, and then we can build a big head for it later.

i was also thinking that since he wants to use the car for club racing, it maybe better that he uses our GT-ss turbos to make an easy 350WRKW with the 7500rpm rev limiter.

do you thinkthis set up would work or would it suffer to much up top?

Cheers Ben

Hi Ben, using a stock GTR head with Poncams would be fine, it just waists money as you have to dissassemble it again to fit the good top end. I believe the cost of duplicated labour plus parts like gaskets and seals, would outway the cost of doing it right the first time. Do the numbers and I am sure you will come to the same conclusion.

GTSS's are a bit small, I even disgarded the idea of using the larger 2530's on my own RB31. I reckon GTRS's would be the go, if you want twins. Mine has a big single as I wanted the lower weight, better weight distribution and less complexity.

:P

What size would you recomend for a good club racing style turbo.HKS 3240?

Any ball bearing turbo that supplies 60 lbs of air per minute at around 1.5 bar (or less) would be my choice. I chose a Turbonetics T66 with dual ceramic ball bearings and a titanium compressor.:)

hey, just wondering what sort of budget would be required to build an engine with the rb26 head and rb30 bottom end making a reliable and responsive power output of around 300rwkw. Also, what would need to be changed to do this? (eg, cams, turbo's, pistons etc)

thanks :)

modr33s2,

5k is around the mark with a set of forgy's.

Thats not touching the head, no port work etc. Just bolting it on.

Its also obviously not including labour to drop the motor in.

Yeah he did alot of the work himself melted 3 motors with the nos, was also sponsored by mod shop but work on motor was done by someone with expertise in that area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...