Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When initialisiting the SAFC and you go into the

etc -> Sensor Type -> Hotwire

Do you set both the "In" and "Out" sensors to the sensor number or just the "In". I set just the "In" and it was idling rough... Also in the "Car Select" when you choose 6 cylinders which day does the arrow point? Diagonal upright or downright?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7103-safc-initialisation-questions/
Share on other sites

400HP, by referring to the SAFC setup chart, if In/Out sensor numbers are different, the manual will give two numbers i.e. 2/4.

If only one number is given, in case of R33, set both In/Out the same numbers.

Good to hear that now ur SAFC is working fine :-)

Good to hear that now ur SAFC is working fine :-)

Yeh I'm very happy about it. Just need to get it tuned a bit now.

If only one number is given, in case of R33, set both In/Out the same numbers.

On the manual it says the GTR is a HW-3 so I'm assuming that its just Hotwire with sensor number 3? But I guess this must be it cos when i set it any other way it almost stalls at idle.

Yeap, 3 is the sensor number which must be set into In & Out settings.

Unless you are doing a GT-R single airflow meter conversion, then In & Out would be different values. That's what I read in SAFC manual and they give an example on a GT-R n 300ZX I think...

Can i install a 2nd hand SAFC and safely run the car before having it tuned.....Does the SAFC have a default mode of operation where it makes no change to the airflow signal or does it remember the previous owners setting??

Where do most people put the unit, i have a r33, thinking about modifying the small holder benieth the climate control.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Yes thats exactly what I've done. All you need to do is "Initialise" the SAFC. Theres a setting for this. You then make sure it knows the car type, the number of inputs and outputs and just leave the correction at 0.

This means it wil read in Aiflow and feed it back to ECU as is without correction. Just make sure you initialise it.

Hey Guys, my installation drawing shows 6 wires,

red = power

Green = Rpm

Brown = Ground 1

Black = Ground 2

Yellow = Airflow out

White = Airflow In

On the Ecu drawing for the R33 it list a throttle signal.

Question

Is the Throttle signal needed, if so, which color wire is attached to it.....

Help needed asap as l am in the middle of the install..

Thankyou

I don't understand your problem. If you've managed to do all the other wires its exactly the same. Follow the ECU diagram and intercept the throttle with your SAFC wire.

I'm not sure if it will run without it. I assume if you've already wired the airflow in and out that the SAFC is expecting the throttle reading too.

my install guide didn't tell me ANY of the colours of the ECU wires.... it only had colours of the SAFC wires. From each ECU pin there should only be ONE wire.

So all you do is locate the pin.... see which wire is coming out the back of it.... and tap into that with the SAFC wire.

  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

guys, help please.

im installing my new s-afc today. only problem is where the wiring diagram(ecu pinout) shows my rpm signal wire on the ecu, there is no wire in this spot??????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...