Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

ive driven a fair few different model skyline's.....and i own a GTS-4 so i may be biased but i would never choose a GTS-t over the -4. they have many similarities to the GTR but without the hot price tag. And the good thing about the R32's is that the 4WD is run by a fuse so a switch can be hooked up easily to swap from rear wheel drive to 4WD instantly. good for drifting and racing. all round winner in my eyes.

***cheers***

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71088-r32-gts4/#findComment-1330057
Share on other sites

Hi, the 4wd system operates the same - it is Attessa, i.e. uses loss of traction and g-force sensors to activate 4wd. The V-spec and maybe normal GTR 4WD may come on faster as the car has more power to cope with when it loses traction.

Reliability is good, get the car checked out by someone who knows GTRS/GTS4's.

Parts arent too bad, as parts for GTR are fairly common these days. Good thing about parts is that it is very similar to GTR and as NIssan in Australia has to stock the GTR parts it means any parts you have to get from Nissan that are the same as the gtr dont attract freight charges.

When you are looking for high performance parts it is easier to get them for a GTR than a GTST, sometimes parts makers dont do the GTST but they DO do the GTR.

RB20DET is a good engine and can handle hard driving if serviced regularly and if modified - done properly!

On a dry track at QLD raceway I was even with a GTST which was stock like mine, I was handicapped by the extra weight and him by loss of traction. If it had been wet...

They can do with a bit of extra power as the 'competition' these days has got greater Kw, they finally caught up.

tried against some mates cars, mine stock 1990 GTS4 except for 3 inch cat back exhaust.

Against a supercharged 3.8 holden commodore(2000) model, I got beaten from start(started on 1500 rpm - got jumped!), from rolling start was neck and neck, come to a corner and its all over.

against a 220 kw v8 ss auto (2001) from standing start right on his butt, he could not pull away.

I am happy with the performance until I get in my friends GTR!

I know a guy on skylines downunder who has a GTS4 with 280 kw from his RB20det - lots of mods and lotsa $$$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71088-r32-gts4/#findComment-1335018
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...