Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I called nissan.

$185 :eek:

OMG...

Called Sprint Autoparts on a price for a EF-EL NGK one and $75 :D

I'm going to give NGK a call tomorrow for a part number or if they do make one with a plug to suit the RB20DET.

If all else fails the ford one will be the go.

Any other ideas what it will be compat with?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Apparently mine is buggered at the moment as when the car is cold there is a bit of a dead spot when cruising or very light throttle. Only for the first km or two.

At the moment i don't get any less than around 420km's per tank usually when take it easy i get close to 500km's.

I think the preheat part in the sensor must be buggered..?!?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-105206
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Doctor

keep me posted what difference it makes to power and fuel economy.

Doc

Won't make any difference to power. It only works on constant throttle, ie highway cruise.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-106733
Share on other sites

I spoke to NGK and after a couple of days they got back to me.

Apparently they havn't got a listing anywhere for a R32.

Nissan apparently do order parts from them but they don't tell them what they are for and unfortunately he said use the specified O2 sensor as each one has different parameters for example heating something when shutting down the motor.

He said to me to get the origional or even see if I can see a part number stamped on the o2 sensor that may start with a NG or somthing then get back to him..

Using a different O2 sensor is dodgy he thinks.. otherwise they would simply make one universal o2 sensor and not worry about different part numbers..

gotta go... .:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-108299
Share on other sites

Originally posted by -Joel-

Apparently mine is buggered at the moment as when the car is cold there is a bit of a dead spot when cruising or very light throttle. Only for the first km or two.

At the moment i don't get any less than around 420km's per tank usually when take it easy i get close to 500km's.

I think the preheat part in the sensor must be buggered..?!?!

Hi Joel, how do I tell my O2 sensor's been buggered?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-109120
Share on other sites

I used to have one connected. It would drop to 0 in about an hour. My current pump (Bosch motorsport) drops immediately you turn the engine off, 'coz it doesn't have the non-return valve.

Nothing wrong with it losing pressure. That's why the pump runs for about 5 seconds when you switch ignition to ON, just to re-pressurise the fuel rails.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-109319
Share on other sites

But does the stock fuel pump have a non-return valve too? It is suppose to return to drop significantly when you turn off the engine?

I wonder if that's causing the strange startup. When I turn on the car on mornings, she seems to weakly startup, to about 400rpm like as if its going to stall for a split second before firing up to 1000rpm. Anyone had that before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-109376
Share on other sites

To tell if the O2 sensor is buggered, is a hard one.

Maybe a read out of the ecu codes.

A bit off topic ..

:D

I was driving along in 35degree heat with the AC on today one minute the temp guage is sitting on half then all of a sudden it starts to creep up. Off goes the AC on goes the heater on the FC setting and then the temp dropped around to the 3/4 mark.

It got as high as the line that is under the H.

Then all of a sudden it drops back to half again.

AC back on.. All is fine for a while then up she goes again.

I replaced the Thermostat (just finished it) with a motormate special from a VL Commodore. it was 24.95

Slapped it in and touch wood i can let her idle and idle without the temp guage creeping at all. (twin thermo's)

If the Thermostat had decided to stay shut it could have been a motor.

so... Replace your thermostat at around 100,000km's. i've done 115,000km's.

-----------------------------

AIT... With the start thingo is that once it kicks over.?

mine sometimes splutters for half a sec or so at 400rpm then brooms up to 1000rpm..

I've come to accept it. as long as it doesn't get worse.

it does it probably once every 3 days or so when stone cold

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-109779
Share on other sites

Oh and also.. You wouldn't want to replace the Thermostat's housing, its called the inlet i think.. From nissan $70.

The Rb20det's one is a little longer than the Rb30 one.

Maybe the R31's Inlet is the same?!? i might have to have a look.

If that fails maybe the VL Commodores/R31's bottom (inlet) hose would adapt if you use the VL commodres/R31's inlet housing ($19.95)

Any1?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-109793
Share on other sites

AIT... With the start thingo is that once it kicks over.?

mine sometimes splutters for half a sec or so at 400rpm then brooms up to 1000rpm..

I've come to accept it. as long as it doesn't get worse.

it does it probably once every 3 days or so when stone cold [/b]

Actually mine does exactly that! What the heck is wrong? Mine does that everyday actually. That's why I thought is it anything to do with a dying fuel pump or leaky injectors? But only on the first start of the day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-109837
Share on other sites

Plugs?

...

Replaced the Thermostat.. No difference.

Tim from RPM thinks that it is due to not enough air being able to get to the Radiator due to the 2.5" FMIC.

Hence why it only does it on 30+ degree days, and locally 80km's or under.

I have a gut feeling it could be a dirty radiator, even though it was only rodded 8 or 9 months ago.

Then again the std radiator is pretty small and poxy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-110367
Share on other sites

It used to before I cleaned my AAC Valve.

It used to bounce from 400 to 800, then eventually get lower and lower until almost stalling.

It also still pops and carries on a bit with the plugs I run, if i drop the idle to around 600rpm.

650 or 700rpm and it idles smooth.

i'm running slightly colder plugs which is most probably the cause of this as the old plats where the standard heat range of 5 and would never pop or miss slightly on a low idle.

Also when my AAC valve was playing up (gummed up) putting the coppers in made matters worse.

I think the plugs i'm running are BCPR6ES or somthing.

Do a search on the AAC valve, give it a clean. All up it should cost you around $6 for the can of carbi-clean and some gasket paper $4, providing you have a stanley knife.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-111098
Share on other sites

I'm quite sure the AAC valve was cleaned when I sent it for servicing the last time. Specially told my mechanic to do that for me.

Anyway I did some driving today and realised that the erratic idling starts when I turn on the headlights and then PRESSED and held the brakes! The idle starts going between 600 and 800. How could the brakes be drawing so much electricity that it would do that? I just had a new heavy duty battery put in and it still didn't make much of a difference. WHat's wrong? The alternator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-111353
Share on other sites

It's funny that you say that, because I actually had this problem for about a year, then it got worse and the stereo would switch off when I put my foot on the brake along with the erratic idle I checked that bat and alternator voltages to cut along story short it ended up being a voltage drop between the alternator and the batt, I ran a new cable, fixed :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-111696
Share on other sites

Originally posted by teka

It's funny that you say that, because I actually had this problem for about a year, then it got worse and the stereo would switch off when I put my foot on the brake along with the erratic idle I checked that bat and alternator voltages to cut along story short it ended up being a voltage drop between the alternator and the batt, I ran a new cable, fixed :)

Run a new cable between alternator and battery? It solved the problem? Did you try increasing the idle speed too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7130-o2-sensor-rb20det/#findComment-111799
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...