Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Hicks

G'day all.

I rang auto clutch today, For the good Ceramic 2500 lbs its $550.00 which I think is pretty damn cheap. Then another $200 for installation.

Should have my car back on the road in a week or so.

Mate thats the way to go.:P

2500lbs pressure plate is a bit of a leg breaker. It may not be to your taste if you have never driven a car with one before. Ross does a 2000lb version thats not too much more than stock but has plenty of extra clamping pressure.

Just think about it... or better still ask someone nicely to have a turn of their car with a 2500lb pressure plate and see if you will like it. (personally I don't think you will need it unless you are going to tow a boat). ;)

I got the works, 2500 pound pressure plate and the 9 finger metal spring loaded plate. Its been in now for about a month and I think I'm finally used to the extra effort required to push on the clutch. It takes some time getting used to as rev210 says maybe go with the 2000 pound pressure plate it'll save your legs :P

That sounds like the go Hicks. My mate only has twin-plates for pull type assemblies (R32 GTR's), not push type which you need. He says the guys at autoclutch are very good, and it seems everyone is in agreeance with that.

He did say, and this is open to anyone, that he has 5 factory clutches that need rebuilding, and therefore if anyone wants to use one to get rebuilt while they are still driving on there's then it would keep you on the road. So if you feeling like you need to replace your clutch then we can give you one to have built into a 2500lb monster, and then take your crappy clutch back off you once the new one is fitted.

Let me know if anyone wants to do this.

Hope your on the road soon Hicks.

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

That sounds like the go Hicks. My mate only has twin-plates for pull type assemblies (R32 GTR's), not push type which you need.  

See'ya :burnout:

Err , you mean PUSH type for R32 GTR's and not PULL type like R33 's and late R32 GTR's

Ken

Originally posted by 25GTT

Also is Macka still running standard clutch? I still am and as a result have to launch quite nicely.... hence the reason while no quarter mile times..... after nect couple of engine mods are done loks like the next thing will be the clutch!

Hey...

No im not running the standard clutch and yes its cactus!

Autoclutch 2500lb pressure plate bla bla, works good! good take up but it only lasted 5000kms for me.

I think if you want 300hp+ i wouldnt bother as that clutch isnt the answer to all your problems ewven if u may think so to start with what about 3 or 6 months down the track.

Hicks and GTS_VSPEC u guys deserve each other! :P

Macka,

How stuffed is your clutch? I take it you can still drive on the street no problems, so the 2500lb clutch's aren't up to 300+hp and drag racing. I did think the 450hp was a bit optimistic, but I suppose it depends how you drive it, drag racing will put alot more stress than normal hard driving.

If your after a twin-plate I'll keep my ears and eyes open and let you know if ones available.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by macka

Hey...

No im not running the standard clutch and yes its cactus!

Autoclutch 2500lb pressure plate bla bla, works good! good take up but it only lasted 5000kms for me.

I think if you want 300hp+ i wouldnt bother as that clutch isnt the answer to all your problems ewven if u may think so to start with what about 3 or 6 months down the track.

Hicks and GTS_VSPEC u guys deserve each other! :D

Macka, did you use the 9 puck one or the uprated organic plate ?

The puck one seems to hold together with a GTR so am surprised if ya killed one of those in 3 mths

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

Macka, did you use the 9 puck one or the uprated organic plate ?

The puck one seems to hold together with a GTR so am surprised if ya killed one of those in 3 mths

Ken

Gday Ken

Im not really sure i was under the impression it was just the organic upgrade...

Whatever Dan (imacul8) had i got too :D

If it's from Autoclutch it would normally be either a 9 puck Brass button or an upgraded ( read asbestos ) plate.

Ross doesn't do ceramic normally and if you have a smell of burning , like when you have hammered the brakes, then it will be an upgraded fibre one.

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

If it's from Autoclutch it would normally be either a 9 puck Brass button or an upgraded ( read asbestos ) plate.

Ross doesn't do ceramic normally and if you have a smell of burning , like when you have hammered the brakes, then it will be an upgraded fibre one.

Ken

Thatll be the one.

I told Ross how much horsepower i had n may possibly get and what i was gonna do with it and thats what I got.......

A BBQ!

Hicks, are you going to go back to the plex and atleast show people that your Skyline can smoke the tyres rather than destroy the clutch. It was quite funny to see when you actually thought the tyres were turning !! Hope to see another fine burnout performance soon dude.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...