Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just wondering why are defects such a problem. I mean if u have 17 inch mag wheels how is that dangerous?? I can understand how an exhaust and loud music can piss people off, but having a low car, mag wheels, bov etc, they are simply stupid restrictions. Also how can they take away points for defects?? Its not a driving offence, its a problem with the car. So when you go and get insurance and they ask you if you've lost any points on your licence and you say yes, for defects, they'll up the premium which sucks balls.

Just my thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/716-problems-with-defects/
Share on other sites

Well I think it's to stop people putting wheels straight onto cars without setting up the suspension or anything else. That's why an engineers certificate is required. And I do agree with that.

At times it can seem incredibley annoying and pain in the arse, and a lot of people know their cars, unfortunately a lot more don't. And it's to protect us and themselves.

The diameter of the wheel is not a defectable item .... it's the width they will get you for. If the width more than 26 mm wider than the stock width which is listed on the tyre placard (this should be fitted during compliance) then you need to have them listed on an engineers cert. The reason being that the wider the more chance they will touch the arch. It's common that the larger the wheel in diameter, the larger the width also which is why people commonly associate the defect to the wheel diameter.

Low rides can also be a danger due to the fact that in everyday life, debris is a common hazard on roads .... can you imagine what a brick in the middle of a lane yould do to your ride sitting at 50 mm going 110 on the freeway ?? Not to mention that this little meeting would likely cause more debris, if not an accident in itself.

Having a BOV is not a defectable item ... as long as it doesn't vent to atmosphere :mad:

Dluded, you get a cert for the mods you have at the time .... and they are listed individually, so it's best to get all the mods you wish to have listed done, and them get them all cert'd at the same time to save $$$ and hassle.

An engineers cert isn't always going to save your ass (As cops only have to suspect a defect, no proof needed) but in most cases if your nice about it, show the cop the cert and advise him to check this with the equipment, they'll be cool .... you do get assholes though.

Originally posted by DLuded

but ive heard people say that they have been defected for after market BOV, 18inch wheels, small steering wheels etc. and is there a actual list which shows you what is defected???

THX

basically anything you have added on after the car rolled off the showroom can be a defect. ok, maybe the christmas tree or dice hanging off your mirror (eeew) isn't but if a copper wants to be an idiot he can say they destract you therefore...

maybe that was a bad example but they can and will get you for most things if they want. it's their lack of knowledge that affects their judgement too. eg, i've heard of cops trying to defect a car for a stock bov. it's ridiculous right, but with limited knowledge they don't know if it's a stock item or not. they just defect you cause it's a 'BOV' and they know it's illegal.

btw, i'm getting an eng cert very soon but even that can't save you in some instances.

Porgie, read up on your ADR's ... no ADR stipulates tyre diameter, the width is the only defectable item .... this can be confirmed with the RTA Technical line if you wish for the number ... step down !!! :P

As for you Dluded, if your grind into your car then you can clearly see why they would need a cert or be a defectable item :mad:

The reason your friends may tell you they have been defected for an after market BOV is if it was venting to atmosphere instead of being plumbed back .... the atmo venting BOV's are the ones which make the nice big "PSSssssSssTT" sound when you let off the accel, or when changing gears .... an aftermarket plumbed back like the Turbosmart Type II Plumback is completely legal.

As for the 18" wheels once again, you'll find they were prolly defected due to width as most 18" rims are going to be 18x8" - 18x10" , clearly well over the 26 mm allowance from standard of most vehicles.

Steering wheels have to comply to ADR's also, a lot of momo wheels etc are illegal, not completely sure as to reasoning but more info can be found on the RTA website if you wish.

A defectable item is only something which breaches the ADR for the specific item. Exactly why when you have nothing better to do you should read up on your ADR's so when the day comes you can easily talk your way out of a defect ....

I carry of the ADR's in my car for reference if a cop wishes to argue the point. Educating police officers .... I should get paid much more :mad:

Originally posted by JiMb0

Don't listen to George, he is a confused individual ... I'll give you some references when I get home as I'm just leaving work to catch a train, but the RTA website has a wealth of information.

ha ha. he's right. i'm laying into my 3rd beer. *burp* xcuse me

like he said, rta web site would be able to help ya but i've warned you. they can get you for anything. even tongue rings i hear.

j/k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...