Jump to content
SAU Community

Full Turbo Kit for RB25/20

XZLA.8
 Share

Recommended Posts

XZLA.8 Experienced

XZLA.8

Posted
Posted

Turbo Package suit RB20, RB25, RB30, SR20 & Tough CA18.

Turbo Package Consists Of:

A Percision T04e, (with a T/3 Flange,)

Turbo Bag

40mm Waste Gate,

Braiden lines,

Gaskets, Bolts, Chrome fittings and V-Band fitting

Also includes Hks Pod Filter.

This turbo package is capable of making 300rwkw on only 14 psi. The turbo have steel front and back wheels and are brand new are rated at 550hp. it is also 360 thrust bearing The package comes with all of the necessary fittings to make it an easy fit to any car, there is no manifold included, was bought from this forum and never put on, now selling and using cash for other investment.

PRICE DROP $850 FIRM NEED TO SELL ASAP

PM or call 0400261099

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71707-full-turbo-kit-for-rb2520/
Share on other sites
XZLA.8 Experienced

XZLA.8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think you have confussed this sale with others going around, cos I do know what turbos you are talking about and I assure you and everyone else that this is not one of them.

I will be reciving the full details on the turbo aswell as all the specs tommrrow and as soon as i do i will be posting it.

This is not the dicussion section and I will not be disscusing "cheap china turbos" in this tread, if you wish to dicuss this any further i suggest you send me a PM or call me on 0400261099, or I will be forced to report you to admin.

I also can supply the number of the person I bought this turbo from who will back me up 100% as when he bought it (two of them) he also had it checked up by a performance shop in brisbane "driftking" i belive, who said they were more then fine, once again, details via PM.

Rs,

infected flow Rising Star

infected flow

Posted
Posted

****en what is it with you posting this thread all the time if your not intrested dont ****en buy it and dont post!

this is the second thread u have done this too!

XZLA.8 Experienced

XZLA.8

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Conidering it has a T3 flange, will it bolt directly into the standard R33 low mount turbo manifold? Also, would it need a new FMIC to get about 10-12psi of boost? ...my baby's in deparate need of a new turbo..

It will bolt onto a R33 manifold, The factory cooler should be fine on low boost but it would be better with FMIC,

Open to offers,

Rs,

TimmyC Collaborator

TimmyC

Posted
Posted

you know how it has 0.60 Front and 0.84 Rear, which is the one most resonsible for lag ? or are they both equally responsible ? cos i really want to cut down lag as much as possible so i was looking for an A/R of around 0.64 is this right ? it would bolt straight on right ?

XZLA.8 Experienced

XZLA.8

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you know how it has 0.60 Front and 0.84 Rear, which is the one most resonsible for lag ? or are they both equally responsible ? cos i really want to cut down lag as much as possible so i was looking for an A/R of around 0.64 is this right ? it would bolt straight on right ?

I belive there is not much difference between The rear being 0.64 and 0.84, I have seen a 0.84 on a 4cyl and the car pulls hard all throught the rev range.

Remember big power = lag, it will bolt straight on and if you find the 0.84 to laggy for your likin then you could always take it off and replace the rear housing with a 0.64.

Rs,

hefer81 Collaborator

hefer81

Posted
Posted

a few quick questions roughly how much psi can u run through the turbo.

What brand is the wastegate and how much can it support.

Where are u located.

Has the turbo been used before rebuilt reputable etc.

If i like the answers very interested.

XZLA.8 Experienced

XZLA.8

Posted
  • Author
Posted
a few quick questions roughly how much psi can u run through the turbo.

What brand is the wastegate and how much can it support.

Where are u located.

Has the turbo been used before rebuilt reputable etc.

If i like the answers very interested.

PM sent

Rs,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...