Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have read hundreds of threads about whether an rb25 turbo on an rb20 is a good upgrade or not.

I have an r32 and it seems relatively responsive, still on stock boost, but the midrange seems shit and just revs out with no real power. I need to get it tuned and i have a 3" front and dump pipe and hi flow cat to join onto my old 3" cat back system.

The other thing i read was that if you put on an rb25 turbo they get very fuelly, so i was wondering if you got it tuned after if it would fix this problem.

basically i want a daily that i can put my foot down on the odd occasion and feel it kick me back in my chair and beat commodore assholes ha ha!

any help would be good cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71750-rb25turbo-on-rb20-q/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I am not sure I understand the question, but I will have a go......

The RB25DET turbo produces 10% more airlfow at 7 psi, than the RB20DET turbo does at 10 psi. So if you bolt on an RB25DET turbo and use the RB25DET wastegate actuator you will get 7 psi and about 10% more power. However if you use the RB20DET wastegate actuator on the RB25DET turbo it will produce 10 psi and you will get 25% more power.

That is provided you have the support parts (intercooler and exhaust) in place to handle the increased airflow.

If you really want to get the best from the increased airflow you really need to tune it. R32GTST's have an easily chipable ECU. Either that or an SAFC (or equivalent) will do a reasonable job of removing the exccessive richness that the standard ECU provides whenever the airflow is increased over standard. There is another 15% more power to be had from simple tuning.

That's more than enough to give a 255kw Commondoor a thorough thrashing.

Hope that answered your question:cheers:

Hmmm, very impressive Ronin. We have same mods but the cam gears.

How much difference do they make on a RB20. Did you do a before and after power run?

You are running a bit lean there, the power must of came down a bit once the fuel pump was changed. I had 137 rwkw but was running flat 14 AFR and after the fuel pump change it went down to 130 but very rich. The car was still pretty stock then. :D

fark ...

my r32 with stock turbo only pulled 135.5 rwkw on standard boost .. with the only mods ..

hks filter,

hks full exhaust,

standard copper ngk plugs (non iridium)

............ now that i got the fmic and new bov ...will i get more power increase??

also i have the r33 stock turbs as well but not fitted yet and i dont know if this is worth the hassle of doing without causing strain on the engine ..???

also could i boost more if i used the r33 turbo but using the r32 actuator?? will it cause damage to the turbo / engine?? and how much boost could i run? and wot power figures should i expect?

cheers

With a fmic + bov + r33 turbo, id get it tuned then u cud run probably as much as u wanted, but id say to keep it safe keep it around 1bar for racing and just normal say 10psi for daily driving! Yes the r32 actuator goes onto the r33 turbo no problems aswell.

  • 2 weeks later...

Actuator regulates the boost level, (ie rb25 actuator = stock 7psi, rb20 actuator = stock 10psi)

rb25 turbo is just bigger than the rb20 turbo really.. series 1 r33 turbos are the strongest (but usually are older remember). Actuators generally come with the turbo, if not put ur rb20 actuator on there (or maybe do that anyway...)

rb25 turbo = $400 (+ install.. $100-200)

FMIC (inc install) = $700-1000

So your looking $1500ish for it all done, if your exhaust is done ull notice one hell of an improvement :)

Actually i wouldnt run too much boost with the rb25 turbos. S2's have a plastic compressor wheel, and both have ceramic exhaust wheels, so its possible to drop the wheels off still. I was running 16psi constantly with my S2. Before i had it tuned, and with a small boost leak which lost a lot of bottom end i still ran a 13.0 @105mph with a 2.1 60ft on crappy tyres. That was in a 180sx, but a R32 gts-t isnt that much heavier, so you can beat most commodores if thats what your worried about. One of the biggest differences was getting it tuned, top end was a little better, but the most noticable was normal driving and the mid-range... fuel ecomonmy was much better also. As someone said before, your clutch will go quickly, mine lasted about a week

Actuator regulates the boost level, (ie rb25 actuator = stock 7psi, rb20 actuator = stock 10psi)

rb25 turbo is just bigger than the rb20 turbo really.. series 1 r33 turbos are the strongest (but usually are older remember). Actuators generally come with the turbo, if not put ur rb20 actuator on there (or maybe do that anyway...)

rb25 turbo = $400 (+ install.. $100-200)

FMIC (inc install) = $700-1000

So your looking $1500ish for it all done, if your exhaust is done ull notice one hell of an improvement :)

Series 1 turbos are not really any stronger as both s1 and s2 have ceramic turbine wheels which is the weekest part of both turbos. The S2 has a plastic compressor wheel which gives better responce.

Is it possible to put a t28bb onto an rb20det?

If so, would it be better than the rb25turbo?

Sorry, i must be a dumbass.. i still dont really understand the role of the actuator.. i understand that it regulates boost.. but i dont understand how the rb25 one is better than the rb20 one. How do they differ?

Is it possible to put a t28bb onto an rb20det?

If so, would it be better than the rb25turbo?

Sorry, i must be a dumbass.. i still dont really understand the role of the actuator.. i understand that it regulates boost.. but i dont understand how the rb25 one is better than the rb20 one. How do they differ?

A t28 smaller than the turbo you have already got.

Its not a mater of one actuator being better than another. is all the actator does its push the wastgate open once a certain amount of boost is reached. An rb25 actator is designed to open when it sees 5psi where as a rb20 actuator will open when it sees 10psi.

cheers

Hmmm, very impressive Ronin. We have same mods but the cam gears.  

How much difference do they make on a RB20. Did you do a before and after power run?

You are running a bit lean there, the power must of came down a bit once the fuel pump was changed. I had 137 rwkw but was running flat 14 AFR and after the fuel pump change it went down to 130 but very rich. The car was still pretty stock then.    :O

I'm fairly sure you want to run a 12:1 AFR

putting a T28 from a S14-S15 on a RB20 would be useless exercise.

it will cost more to fabricate a new flange for your manifold and I'm not so sure if would actually be called an UPGRADE.

actuator.

the RB20's don't have a boost controler at all.

the factory boost setting of 10psi is set that way due to the spring that is in the actuators diaphram (that round part at the front)

that spring is hard enough to keep the wastegate closed enough to provide the engine with 10psi of boost.

The Rb25's have a solenoid that controls boost. this solenoid is controlled by the ECU.

so the actuator diaphram has a spring in it that is weaker than the RB20 one.

the spring alone can only hold 7psi.. and the ecu/solenoid combo work together to provide more if needed.

so when people upgrade their RB20 turbo to an RB25 turbo, because their stock engine doesn't have a boost controller, they use the RB20 actuator.

this means that they can still get 10psi with no other boost mods on the new bigger RB25 turbo.

as Sydney kid said earlier, the RB25 turbo will flow (meaning produce) 10% more at stock 7 psi than the RB20 turbo does at 10 psi.

so even if you use the Rb25 turbo and it's own actuator, at 7psi you will have more power than with the rb20 turbo at 10psi.

but use the rb20 actuator on the Rb25 turbo so you have 10 psi on that as well and you end up with a 25% increase in power/flow at same boost on the new turbo.

does that help?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...