Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Ive been reading about fitting an aftermarket ECU to autos and searched the forums and the best thing i could get was a daugtherboard, which hasnt been made yet.

I had a chat with someone from Wolfems (i know his name but wont mention it) and he said that i could fit the Wolf 4 in a piggy back setup so my ECU will still control Idle and shifting but the wolf would do the rest that i require.

Can anyone out there tell me if this has been done to their cars and just your general thoughts. I definitly cant go 5speed (the wife :bs!: .)

Thanks

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71780-wolf3d-ver4-in-a-gtt-auto/
Share on other sites

hi

there are a few options for GTT autos (in no particular order)

1) Remap from a workshop (e.g. powerplay)

2) Daughterboard

3) E-manage

4) Unichip

5) SAFC I/II

theres a member here who has a unichip in his r34 and currently has around 200~ atw

i'm getting one installed in mine soon as well

Hi all,

Ive been reading about fitting an aftermarket ECU to autos and searched the forums and the best thing i could get was a daugtherboard, which hasnt been made yet.  

I had a chat with someone from Wolfems (i know his name but wont mention it) and he said that i could fit the Wolf 4 in a piggy back setup so my ECU will still control Idle and shifting but the wolf would do the rest that i require.

Can anyone out there tell me if this has been done to their cars and just your general thoughts.  I definitly cant go 5speed (the wife :bs!: .)

Thanks

Ben

Hi Ben, if you use the Wolf to run the ignition then you won't get igntion cut on gearchanges. This will adversely effect the shift quality and cause premature wear of the gearbox. The standard ECU has extensive programming for this purpose. You could just use the Wolf to run the injection, but an SAFC or equivalent would do almost as good a job for less than 1/3 the cost.:D

PS; there has been lots of discussion on this topic, I strongly suggest you do a search.

Hi Ben, if you use the Wolf to run the ignition then you won't get igntion cut on gearchanges.  This will adversely effect the shift quality and cause premature wear of the gearbox.  The standard ECU has extensive programming for this purpose.  You could just use the Wolf to run the injection, but an SAFC or equivalent would do almost as good a job for less than 1/3 the cost.:D

PS; there has been lots of discussion on this topic, I strongly suggest you do a search.

Thanks for that. I did do a search and read most of the info about shifting etc and found that the main one was the daughter board. Heres the email i received back from Wolf;

"Hi Ben,

The only way to put a system on that car, would be to piggyback

the Wolf3D Version 4 ECU (leaving the original in place), and the original

ECU would then control idle, auto trans shifting, etc, and the Wolf would

do ignition and injection, and any other auxiliary functions that you

require."

I guess what i should have asked in the first place is, what advangates would a Wolf in this configuration offer me, for future modifications and just general tuning.

The safc2 is approx $400 and daughterboard is expected between $600 and $800.

Thanks

Ben

Thanks for that. I did do a search and read most of the info about shifting etc and found that the main one was the daughter board.  Heres the email i received back from Wolf;

"Hi Ben,

       The only way to put a system on that car, would be to piggyback

the Wolf3D Version 4 ECU (leaving the original in place), and the original

ECU would then control idle, auto trans shifting, etc, and the Wolf would

do ignition and injection, and any other auxiliary functions that you

require."

I guess what i should have asked in the first place is, what advangates would a Wolf in this configuration offer me, for future modifications and just general tuning.

The safc2 is approx $400 and daughterboard is expected between $600 and $800.  

Thanks

Ben

Unfortunately Ben you have to know what questions to ask, and that is sometimes not so easy. Stuff like "the original ECU would then control .....auto trans shifting" seems to indicate the the auto would work normally. But it doesn't, because of the reasons you now know.

I get a lot from reading the posts on SAU, not all of it is answers. Sometimes I find out the questions I need to ask.:D

Thanks once again. Its a while off yet before i get this stuff done, but it will give me chance to find that question... I guess its like the answer 42... Whats the question :-) ("The Guide")

I will do a bit more asking and see if i can get a guaranteed "wont f**k your shifting, if we fit it for you".

Cheers,

Ben

The WOLF can be setup for an external ignition trim, on one of the inputs.

If you can arrange for, or have a switched signal, (digital for preferance) that can trigger this event in the WOLF on gear changes, then it should be do-able.

The WOLF trim table seems to be able to reduce timing as required for this kind of application, but I have not read of anyone trying it!

Alternatively, you could force a momentry change to the air temp sensor reading, by having the gear change 'switch' bridge a resistor across the sensor.

Then setup the air temp ignition modifyer table to dump timing on gear changes.

Spoke to my mechanic/tuner (could not get in touch with Steve), he stated that the wolf may not be able to cut ignition on gear changes, but he has never tried hooking a wolf on a R34 auto. On the other hand, he also stated that a mod can be done to the box to overcome this issue. He told me what part required modding/changing but i forgot as i asked him about a week ago.

skyquest's suggestions sound fesable, may pay to e-mail Steve with this idea.

All the best

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...