Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just don't drain it first or you'll have a heap of fun trying to get fluid back into the master cylinder.

Just fill the reservoir up and pump the fluid through, topping up the reservoir as you go. Do it the same way as you would your brakes. Stop when the fluid coming out of the slave bleed is clean and bubble free.

  • 2 weeks later...

This may sound like a stupid question.. but where the hell is the clutch reservoir on a RB25DET GTST. My clutch is slipping like a biatch, and im hoping it 'may' be fluid as im broke

I doubt its clutch fluid.. havin low or air in the fluid makes your pedal go to the floor without disengaging the plates it wouldnt affect the operation of the clutch when the peddal is not depressed. sorry sounds like new clutch time

Yeh... i just got some clutch fluid today... but found out my reservoir was actually OVER filled, took some out but still the same. I think i need to go for a new clutch too

i would also recommend before getting a new clutch..

check your master and slave cylinders as sometimes the seals in these things go and they dont hold the clutch fluifd in as its leaking out through the sides. UIsyour master clutch cylinder leaking?... if so u can get a new one for 70 bux or a slave one for 60bux.

it wouldnt be leaking cos the reservoir was full (overfull actually) That was my first thought, but if it were leaking, my guess is that it would be bone dry. Also ive tried taking some fluid out but clutch is the same.

Im booked into getting a "9 Puck cushion button extra heavy duty clutch" ... or whatever the hell that is. I was told that would be good, for $850 installed. Plus possibly $50 for machining of the flywheel if needed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...