Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As stated, i have a full haltech e6x ecu for sale. It comes with

coolant temp sensor,

trottle position sensor,

air temp sensor,

3 bar MAP sensor (extra!)

ignition module and

wiring loom and i

nstructions.

This unit also has a boost control function if the haltech boost solenoid is used( can be bought for 98 I think)

.

I am selling as I do not know how to install it myself and do not want to pay to have it installed.

Alternatively, if someone from Adelaide is willing to help me with the installation. i will gladly keep it.

This unit is bought new for $1500

The HALTECH E6X is a powerful "real-time" programmable fuel injection and ignition system computer designed to control most ignition type engines. Whether 1-6, 8, 10 or 12 cylinders, 1-2 rotors, naturally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged, the HALTECH E6X can control it.

The E6X System optimises engine performance through the following capabilities:

Ignition timing control

Fuel control

Idle speed control

Closed loop

The E6X is much more than a programmable fuel injection computer - it provides logging of engine data and allows access in real time to maximise performance and trouble-shoot problems in a vehicle while running.

Typical Applications:

Control of fuel injection on modified engines

Conversion from carburetion to fuel injection

Race and rally applications of all description

Design and development purposes

Educational use by universities and technical colleges

Original equipment in cars and motorcycles.

The patented HALTECH system of programming virtually eliminates the input of numbers. You simply manipulate bar graphs by pressing arrows keys on the attached PC running Haltech Programming software. Manipulating the bars allows you to increase or decrease the amount of fuel delivered or ignition advance at that particular RPM and load point. The process is repeated for all load points in each rpm range.

Ignition timing is precisely mapped through the RPM range so that the exact timing required to obtain optimum performance is applied in every RPM and load range.

For those interested, I will be willing to let it go cheap at 1200.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72017-haltech-e6x-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Hi daniel

the haltech e6x system is a great unit,you must have relised what work and exspence was involved when you bought it.

I am interested in buying haltech but i don't care if it is e6k or e6x.would you sell the ecu and loom only or do you want to sell complete?

thanks stuart

Hi daniel

the haltech e6x system is a great unit,you must have relised what work and exspence was involved when you bought it.

I am interested in buying haltech but i don't care if it is e6k or e6x.would you sell the ecu and loom only or do you want to sell complete?

thanks stuart

pm sent

  • 1 month later...

Hi danial

would you be interested in a swap?

all your haltech gear for my greddy e-01 boost controller and apexi safc11 fuel control unit,both only 6 months old and in excelent condition,every thing supplied except for stands.

thanks stuart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...