Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haven't got a scanner but ive got a rb30det with to4. but i couldn't get it to hold boost, so it went to 16psi at around 4 then dropped down to 11 after that.

101rwhp at 1000

119rwhp at 1500

168rwhp at 2000

231rwhp at 2500

258rwhp at 3000

270rwhp at 4000

252rwhp at 5000

255rwhp at 6000

245rwhp at 7000

read them straight of the sheet hope that helps.

That'd be one interesting dyno to see! If you can get access to a scanner I'd love to see it.

So you're saying your dyno sheet essentially has a flat power line from 3000rpm all the way to 7000rpm?

If those numbers are right, then your car is indeed making 650Nm at the wheels because 172rwkw at 2500rpm is ridiculously good. As you say, this is well above a 300kW Monaro and at much lower revs too. What mods have you got? I knew RB30s were good, but this is amazing.

My RB30DET (RB30 Forged pistons, R32 RB25DE Head) with the stock rb20det turbo and a quick 1hr tune made 100rwkw at 2000rpm, boost was 12psi @ 2000rpm then tailed off to 9psi by 4400rpm where it made peak power of 175rwkw.

4950rpm it was still making 175rwkw.

6100rpm it made 137rwkw.

100rwkw at 2000rpm = 477nM

175rwkw at 4400rpm = 379nM

175rwkw at 4950rpm = 337nM

137rwkw at 6100rpm = 214Nm

This power is at the wheels.

Add ~50kw for drivetrain loss, even though at 175rwkw its more likely to be 60rwkw loss.

So

150fwkw at 2000rpm = 715nM

225fwkw at 4400rpm = 487nM

225fwkw at 4950rpm = 433nM

187fwkw at 6100rpm = 292nM

It rev's like a Nissan Patrol 3.0TDI. :(

yes max power is 271rwhp 3500 and dips to 255rwhp at 5000. then is increases by 10rwhp to 7000.

it is a stock rb30 bottom end with a rb25de head. and a to4 turbo which has a rb25 exhaust housing which has been machined out. nothing much special. im running wolf 3dv4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...