Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day mates

just curious i wana import a car from japan...

model i wanted are 92,93 RX7 or GTST R33 or GTT R34

are they eligible to import??

if they are eligible how much will the compliance cost??

regards

Franky

92,93 rx7 cant not be imported but 89,88 model can and i belived 96+ can be but i belived that no shops have done compliance for them yet (i could be wrong)

Both R33 and R33 can be import, compliance cost can average from $3000 to $5000 depending on how you go to what extra you have done (for example i belived if the car is modded there is an extra cost in removing thou parts and putting them on after compliance)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1333364
Share on other sites

Imports 101 have both stock in japan and direct access to the auctions.

www.imports101.com.au

Import101 DO NOT HAVE STOCK IN JAPAN. They know how to ring a japanese exporter and buy from their stock list. There is a huge difference. What is stopping you ringing the japanese exporter yourself and buying the car without paying imports101 a service fee?

yeah they have access to the auctions but yet again they are probably just going through someone you could go through, with out the added costs.

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem with people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1336171
Share on other sites

']Both R33 and R33 can be import, compliance cost can average from $3000 to $5000 depending on how you go to what extra you have done (for example i belived if the car is modded there is an extra cost in removing thou parts and putting them on after compliance)

thats an interesting statement.... :)

ok i finished being a smartass and pointing out your typo :(

as for the importing... import a stock as a rock car IMO coz i would hate for bits to go missing on the way ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1337059
Share on other sites

15-22k for a s2 GTST R33 manual??

anyone is sellin their manual GTST S2??  

pls pm me

regards

Franky

Hey Franky, there is a shop off Alexander Drive (in malaga) that sell skylines, the dude imports them and has a workshop out the back which does complinces, me and my oldman went and had a talk to him he is a very nice dude, at the moment he only can import 33, they have about 5 or r33 (s1 and s2) and come with warrety wroth checking out if you wish to buy localy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1337970
Share on other sites

Import101 DO NOT HAVE STOCK IN JAPAN. They know how to ring a japanese exporter and buy from their stock list. There is a huge difference. What is stopping you ringing the japanese exporter yourself and buying the car without paying imports101 a service fee?

Of course, by stock I meant stock list. They don't officially have 'stock' as a broker. Although that won't stop them picking up bargins and on-selling them.

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem ith people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

And unless you have nothing better to do with your time, it definitely is the best way to go. How much time would the majority of us waste in $/hr chasing this stuff up that could be spent in making money? I don't know about you, but my time is a lot more valuable than that. Imports 101 (and other brokers i'm sure) take all the end to end hassel away from you. I could give you examples of cases where doing otherwise is clearly a waste of time if you really want it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338137
Share on other sites

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem with people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

why would you have a problem with someone doing it? They have complied and licensed thousands of cars, so they obviously know what & what not to do. Think about it, if everyone's best option was to do it themselves, there wouldn't be such a thing as import brokers, because no one would use them. Don't get me wrong, if you import privately because you want the experience or like the appeal of doing everything yourself, then that's fine...but if you're doing it to save yourself some money, and were barely talking 1K here, then it could backfire bigtime. Good luck, whichever path you choose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338190
Share on other sites

why would you have a problem with someone doing it? They have complied and licensed thousands of cars, so they obviously know what & what not to do. Think about it, if everyone's best option was to do it themselves, there wouldn't be such a thing as import brokers, because no one would use them. Don't get me wrong, if you import privately because you want the experience or like the appeal of doing everything yourself, then that's fine...but if you're doing it to save yourself some money, and were barely talking 1K here, then it could backfire bigtime. Good luck, whichever path you choose.

Hate to be the one to inform you mate :cheers: But you do everything your self even when you use an import broker.

Who contacts compliance? You do

Who sends all the paper work to compliance? You do

Who pays compliance? You do

Who pays the jap exporter? You do

Who contacts the customer broker? You do

Who pays the custom broker? You do

Who sends all the paper work to the compliance broker? You do

An import broker makes money because people think importing is hard and scary and they also think that they cant deal directly with the people they need to.

Lets look at what a broker does for you.

They can send you auction lists per day and allow you to bid. This is just done through a jap company, nothing is stopping you using the jap company yourself.

They have Web Pages that display cars in stock at Japanese export yards. Did you know these export yards also have a web site (in all cases I have seen) that give you the same access to viewing? Difference is you don’t pay a broker a fee.

They contact the exporter and arrange the buy. Did you know you can do this yourself? Email the guy in Japan? Closer to a deal? Ring the guy? plenty speak English or are aussie.

They give you details of compliance workshops and custom brokers. How hard is it to get these details anyway ask on forums? Look in the white or yellow pages?

Feel free to add anything I have missed.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338403
Share on other sites

And unless you have nothing better to do with your time, it definitely is the best way to go. How much time would the majority of us waste in $/hr chasing this stuff up that could be spent in making money? I don't know about you, but my time is a lot more valuable than that. Imports 101 (and other brokers i'm sure) take all the end to end hassel away from you. I could give you examples of cases where doing otherwise is clearly a waste of time if you really want it.

Brokers have ZERO control over the process all they do is pass on information to you.

When is it ever a good idea to have an extra person in the chain with no real input or control, just there recycling information?

It is much easier to deal with all the people involved by email or by phone if you need a quicker response.

If you don’t have time to send an email or make a 5 minute phone call then... keep using brokers because you seriously need the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338406
Share on other sites

Hate to be the one to inform you mate :cheers: But you do everything your self even when you use an import broker.

Who contacts compliance? You do

Who sends all the paper work to compliance? You do

Who pays compliance? You do

Who pays the jap exporter? You do

Who contacts the customer broker? You do

Who pays the custom broker? You do

Who sends all the paper work to the compliance broker? You do

Ok obviously different rules apply to differnt cars and import brokers, but Ive just imported an R32 GTR, and it was as easy as finding the vehicle & paying for it. Everything else is currently being done (freight, customs, compliance & licensing etc). As I work away, the $1200 fee seemed more than reasonable...but like I said previously, if your preference is to be more involved in the whole process, then obviously each to their own!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338463
Share on other sites

A trained monkey can cut and paste off www.japanautodirect.com ask other workshops who comply RAWS cars but who you didn't pay the $1,200 to what they think of their cars and how much they inflate the price.

It is a know fact and plastered over the net you pay their fee and they also get a commission off the Seller in Japan, the Customs Broker they recommend and they the workshop they recommend to comply it if they don't do it them self.

If your hourly rate at work is $300 pay a Broker as 4 hours is all it takes in time at most.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338565
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...