Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have been thinking of buying a Nismo 320km dash for my R33 GTSt.

Only problem is as it's an auto, will this affect the workings of the dash etc? apart from the obvious of losing the PRND21 dash display?

Any info on this would be much apprectiated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72918-nismo-320km-dash-r33-suit-auto/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

I've just ordered one from Nengun, just wondering what would the top speed be if I installed POWER FC to override 180Km/h Cut off?

What's the highest you guys have gone in urs?

And did a normal autoelectrician install it or did u do it urselves?

Cheers

Iceduck

i know for a fact a speedo from an automatic r33 will read very low when used in the dash of a manual r33. i believe this is due to a difference in the speedo sender in manuals/autos.

so if you install a speedo that is meant for a manual i am quite sure it will read very high.

it's not the diff ratio. it's difference in the speedo sender in manuals/autos in the gearbox

so if you get an 320km speedo from a manual and put in ya auto it'll only read about half of the speed of what you are actually doing. eg: if you are going 60k it will only read about 30k or less

it's not the diff ratio. it's difference in the speedo sender in manuals/autos in the gearbox

so if you get an 320km speedo from a manual and put in ya auto it'll only read about half of the speed of what you are actually doing. eg: if you are going 60k it will only read about 30k or less

apexir33 is spot on, as far as i have found the difference is due to the speedo sender. and it will read about half or double (depending on which mismatch it is)

Hm, when I'm doing 100 on my speedo, it is actually 91 according to the speed check LCD on Princes Hwy from Geelong to Melbourne. Mine is converted auto with stock manual gearbox and retaining the auto's 4.3 diff. Based on your argument, it's not half, it's only about 5%. I think a factory manual R33 with 4.11 when cruising along at 100, it will show around 96 or 97 on the same Geelong speed check display.

speedo sender in manuals/autos in the gearbox

Sorry, I missed this.. if the speed sender is in the gearbox, then yes, you're right then... because my gearbox is now manual, the manual speed sender should be in the gearbox when I converted it, and I have a manual, 300kph nismo speedo. It was still the same case with stock manual speedo, 5% less, which is contributed to the different diff ratio.

Sorry, I missed this.. if the speed sender is in the gearbox, then yes, you're right then... because my gearbox is now manual, the manual speed sender should be in the gearbox when I converted it, and I have a manual, 300kph nismo speedo. It was still the same case with stock manual speedo, 5% less, which is contributed to the different diff ratio.

I have a 320KMPH nismo speedo on my R32 GTR 2 speed manual and an apexi multichecker.

when I'm going 120 on the speedo the multichecker reads only 111 ish. but the speedo feels more right. Is there a way to check which one is more correct?

Also I read that a stock R32 GTR can get up to 250kmph max, is this a gearing issue? I've been over 200 and it's not that close to the redline.

When changing wheel sizes we know it can put the speedo a bit out of wack & I've heard this can be corrected by either changing the sizes of the trans gear or driven/ speedo gear to which the speedo cable is attached to. This will change the rate the speed is read; there were ratios to work out which size gears to use but that part went over my head. So, not sure if similar concept could be applied here.

Anyways, I thought an auto electrician should be able to recalibrate the manual speedo cluster to fit an auto to give correct reading.

Also I read that a stock R32 GTR can get up to 250kmph max, is this a gearing issue? I've been over 200 and it's not that close to the redline.

Gearing plays a part, then traction loss, and as well as aerodynamic drag... All this making achieving 250 possible top speed seems forever, best done on a very long straight like the Motor's top speed test in Avalon Airport or car testing oval circuit with cambered corner? An R34 GTR with 6 speed makes it possible to achieve more 250km/h Motor magazine I think had a modified R33 GTR achieving close to 300km/h

Thanks for the Info. So it is actually not a redline redline limit that dictates the top speed.

There for if the environment was right, eg, very straight road/track and you decided to test your top speed, it won't hurt your engine as much as using a car for drag.?

Gearing plays a part, then traction loss, and as well as aerodynamic drag... All this making achieving 250 possible top speed seems forever, best done on a very long straight like the Motor's top speed test in Avalon Airport or car testing oval circuit with cambered corner? An R34 GTR with 6 speed makes it possible to achieve more 250km/h Motor magazine I think had a modified R33 GTR achieving close to 300km/h

Well provided you didn't slam your gears to get there as fast as possible (like in drag racing) I suppose it will be more gentle on your engine and gearbox. However prolonged high revs to achive that top speed (e.g. 6000rpm in 5th) may possibly do some bad things to your engine/tranny, especially if the car is not in top condition.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...