Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls i have a R33 series 2 and its got 60000k's i wanna get a better turbo or internals or both depending on what i need. coz at the moment she s playin up @ 6.5 psi.

my mods are hks magna flow exhaust, tien adjustable suspension, hks air filter, greddy 2 stage boost controller, blitz bov and hks front mount in bout 2 weeks. it has only been complied for a month.

Yet to chuck it on the dyno waitin on the front mount.

So any help would b muchly appreciated....... :flamed:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73221-what-turbo/
Share on other sites

What do you mean "she is playing up at 6.5psi"?

She splotters and makes the car drop and pick up in boost and does it until i change gears? its gettin looked at friday but i wanna fix it now! it feels as though its hittin max boost and wont go past it pretty much like a rev limiter??? any ideas the importer i got the car from had orginal bov plumbed back in and put the blitz bov on the same piping obvisouly. would that have anything to do wid it? :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73221-what-turbo/#findComment-1346301
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...