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I have just installed one of these on my car, and it seems very good.

Be carefull how far you screw the adjustment nob in though - as I was gaining about 1 1/2 psi every quarter of a turn.

Hi, im new her, but have bought one of these valves. I need to now what is the best boost signal to use for feeding the valve. Seems like most of you are using the nipple on the compressor outlet (boost only). But in the instructions it tell you to use the same line as the bov (a vacuum "and" boost line). Will the valve work slightly dirrerently due to this feed line? Will one way work better than the other? Will the vacuum help close the ball faster than if it was setup on the boost only compressor nipple? The maker of these valves will be able to answer my question I hope. I mean he drew the pics/instructions using the bov line for a reason I would assume.

Thanks in advance.

Brad

hey, i bought one of these turbotech controllers and cant seem to get it to work...?

my mechanic conected it between the wastegate diaphram and a vaccum line going into the inlet manifold.

i have tried reversing the controller, connecting/disconnecting the solenoid but with no luck. the boost doesnt change even when completely screwed in...?

ive also heard of people saying theirs has a hole drilled into it but mine doesnt seem to?

my car is a mazda Luce so info is scarse at the best of times.

if someone or mark williams could explain where it goes on a car that isnt a skyline it would be much appreciated.

cheers Louis

ps the pics on the early pages dont work anymore (for me at least).

hey, i bought one of these turbotech controllers and cant seem to get it to work...?

my mechanic conected it between the wastegate diaphram and a vaccum line going into the inlet manifold.

i have tried reversing the controller, connecting/disconnecting the solenoid but with no luck. the boost doesnt change even when completely screwed in...?

ive also heard of people saying theirs has a hole drilled into it but mine doesnt seem to?

my car is a mazda Luce so info is scarse at the best of times.

if someone or mark williams could explain where it goes on a car that isnt a skyline it would be much appreciated.

cheers Louis

ps the pics on the early pages dont work anymore (for me at least).

If you don't have a hole in it, it won't work right, contact mark to fix this issue, these things should be sold 100% free from error.

Hi Alex

I have sent you an email as well. Dont be too concerned about not having a hole drilled in the unit. The main advantage of the vent hole is not realised until quite high boost. At low to moderate boost it wont make much difference that you will notice.

Im not sure I have even heard of your car model before..!

As long as the hose barb at right angle to teh controller goes to wastegate and the other to teh compressor thenm it shuld be fine if you have no solenoid in the mix. With all of the fiddling with it it is possible that the spring may have gottenm jammed somehow. Take the controller right out and remove the bolt (careful that the spring and ball does not fall away.) make sure the spring is loose and not stuck. Then putthe controller back together. To get it back to rougghly your cars stock, simply adjust the bolt in small amounts while blowing through the adjacent hose barb until you can only JUST blow through past the ball, lock the nut and reinstall...

CHeers

MArk

Did anyone have to get new vacuum hose to install this?

I kinda wanna leave the solenoid in the loop so I can have a switch for low/high boost. But between the t-valve nozzle, and the nozzle off the pipe after the intercooler, there is only about 0.5cm of hose. Ie. the hose is like 8cm long, but the nozzles are taking up most of that, so there is no slack inbetween to install the boost controller.

I couldn't get the hose off the t-valve either, brute force would break the hose its so stuck on.

Why is it so easy for everyone else >:

Edit: Got bro to help me. I wasn't using enough force. Another happy customer, works perfectly (at the original setting anyway which appears to be about 9-10psi - I'm not game to take it any higher without an FMIC)

Edited by bombastic
Hi Alex

I have sent you an email as well. Dont be too concerned about not having a hole drilled in the unit. The main advantage of the vent hole is not realised until quite high boost. At low to moderate boost it wont make much difference that you will notice.

Im not sure I have even heard of your car model before..!

As long as the hose barb at right angle to teh controller goes to wastegate and the other to teh compressor thenm it shuld be fine if you have no solenoid in the mix. With all of the fiddling with it it is possible that the spring may have gottenm jammed somehow. Take the controller right out and remove the bolt (careful that the spring and ball does not fall away.) make sure the spring is loose and not stuck. Then putthe controller back together. To get it back to rougghly your cars stock, simply adjust the bolt in small amounts while blowing through the adjacent hose barb until you can only JUST blow through past the ball, lock the nut and reinstall...

CHeers

MArk

the car runs about 9-10psi factory and i will be running around 14-15psi with the cooler set up. is this not high boost?

i've have already done everything you suggested with no luck.

i have also had my wastegate tested by a mechanic and it was fine.

the only hose coming from my wastgate goes into the inlet manifold....?

the only hose coming from the compressor goes back into the turbo...?

am i able to swap my controller for one with a hole as ive tried everything else and my mechanic said it must have a hole in order to be effective.

cheers Louis

Same here in my gtr34 !! Boost didn't increase above the standard level (0.9 bar) no matter how I adjusted !! hmmm. I've notice the difference is:

- Turbos spooled up slower if tighten the screw all the way (totally blocked the hole) => max boost is 0.85

- Turbos spooled up faster if losen the screw all the way (like open pipe) => max boost is 0.9

Sounds like the standard boost setting is not adjustable due to a restrictor some where or the design of the actuators ??

If any one knows about this problem in the gtr34, please help !! I really appriciated...

Cheers :)

Well installed it today and it could not have been easier.

Took me the whole of 3mins to install, including the time taken to pop the bonnet and zip up a couple of zippy ties.

Comes on boost definatly quicker than stock, and holds 10psi beautifully, in each gear.

Best bang per buck mod ever!

bleh i tried to install mine today, and when i drove the boost jumped to the end of the guage almost straight away, i think its because my cooler doesnt have a nipple where the stock one was and i plumbed the boost controller into the vacum line the blow off valve is on.

would this have caused it?

i nearly shat my pants aye haha, i put the stock one back on for now.

cheers

I am not sure, wife has the car atm, so cant run out and check.

But right at the back of the stock plenum at the top there should be a outlet, on both RB25DET's I've owned I've used it as a boost gauge feed.

If you have your stock BC hooked up, why not just use those lines?

i attached the turbo tech to the wastegate actuator line as per instructions, put a screw into the rubber hose that is attached to the plumback blow off valve inlet return hose and used the vacum line that the plumback blow off valve line uses.

im guessing that the BOV and turbo tech cant be both hooked up to the same vac line.

ill just get an exhaust shop to weld a nipple on my cooler pipe where the stock nipple was then go from there.

I got a question

stock R33 turbo, pod and 3" exhaust.

will running this boost controller, say at 9 or 10 psi, cause undue strain on my motor, box, diff....coz of the way it eliminates the 5psi run up, and also from your accounts, kicks in alot harder?

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