Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thw whole if it's the one in the side was there just to relieve any pressure trapped in it.. if mark says it's a new one, than I wouldn't be too worried.. i've been running mine for a year now - haven't had any issues..

As for installing it - just replace the T section with it, don't worry about disconnecting the solenoid..

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

1991 GTR

So much confusion in this thread!!!

Im going to disconnect my oem solenoid, Unplug the electronic plug too.

take both vaccum lines and plum them to each other

then ill run a new vaccum line to the MBC and the wastegates..

Any SIMPLER way?

Links, do you mean leave the hoses connected to the stock solenoid too?

I assume they have to be removed/blocked.

CEF11E, i'm not marks secretary :( but i know from his email that his wife just had a baby. That's probably why he's mia.

Links, do you mean leave the hoses connected to the stock solenoid too?

I assume they have to be removed/blocked.

CEF11E, i'm not marks secretary :( but i know from his email that his wife just had a baby. That's probably why he's mia.

ahh thats probably why he hasnt replied to mine either :)..

I've fitted mine and have had a play running 7, 8 and 9psi (stock apart from cat back, POD and cold air box) I disconnected the lower hose on the solenoid (the one that is connected to the T-Piece on the hose from the cooler piping to the actuator) and did not block the hose at the solenoid. Will this cause any issues as while I think the it spools faster, if anything it feels like it's making less power but it could also be the full tank of fuel it has compared to when i last gave it a fang and it was almost empty (but had a mate in the car???) both times were cold nights. I'm wondering if having the bottom hose unblocked is allowing air in/out. I've also done the low boost solenoid bypass. I've attached some pics to show what I mean. I also note my idle has jumped say 100rpm, like it would do if the hose to the boost guage split (which it has done before) so I assume there is air getting in/out somewhere it shouldn't be.

post-23873-1158065568.jpg

i see your bleed valve doesnt have a hole either. i havent fitted mine, but will when i get a chance.

i read that you dont have to block that bottom pipe from the solenoid, but it wont hurt to try it and see.

I think you should have the top hose from the solenoid blocked, coz you are bypassing that now.

that may be your problem.

have a look at this post

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...375&st=800#

Edited by Munkyb0y

How is the new style to adjust?

The old was a little touchy and some times not consistent. Mine often had the ball stick up that allowed air to easily pass it. To fix I had to pull it apart then be carefull not to adjust it too much otherwise it would get stuck up off its seat again. :D

Im stumped

We put mine on, and got it to hold 9-10psi...

My problem is, that even though i had the low/hi boost thing disabled before having the controller put in, my car is still spiking at 4500rpm!

Example, stock is 5psi till 4500rpm, and 7psi from 4500rpm..

add a full exhaust and boost increases to 9psi...so with the low/hi permanently grounded, its a constant 9psi.

now the problem is, that it would spike to 11psi after 4500rpm, so 9/11 just like 5/7.

Was hoping it was fixed with the installation of the MBC, but now its 9-10/12-13!!!!!!

im obviously not driving flat out atm so it wont hit over 10 anyway, but I need to fix the problem so that i dont kill my stock turbo with going over 13psi, and so that I can move forward mods wise...looking to fit fmic/pfc and tune shortly, but cant do that with this current issue :D

Hi,

I bought this controller a few months ago now but havent been using it becasue of my coils. Now I have my coils fixed I have installed it and running at 12psi. I was expecting the turbo to spool alot faster but I have noticed no difference. My turbo still hits full boost around 3800revs. I have a R34 turbo from a RB25 running on my RB20. The boost also drops from 12psi to 11psi at around 6700revs. Is this normal and is there a way to get my turbo spooling faster? Also does it matter how long the hose is from the turbo and the wastegate?

Thanks! :cool:

Edited by r32matt

R32matt,

I too have always experienced a boost drop. The ONLY way I was able to fix it was to grab a closed loop type EBC. One that adjusts duty cycle in order to hold the set boost level at higher rpm.

The manual type ebc's where you where you are only able to set a fixed duty I have found still drop boost. The one I tried was a HKS item.

I then dropped a Blitz SBC-iD in to it. Selected auto mode and dialed in 15psi, it learnt the boost curve and held 15psi to redline perfectly.

I then started fiddling with my wastegate to make it adjustable. I elongated the holes so I could place greater pretension on the wastegate, this also prevents the wastegate from opening as much resulting in boost holding perfectly to redline.

I have since pulled off my turbotech boost controller and just running the std wastegate with its elongated bolt up holes. :cool:

Works well.

3800rpm is good for an R34 turbo on an RB20. I wouldn't be complaining about that. :)

Dezz have you taken the solenoid out of the loop entirely, tried disconnecting the plug and taking off the hoses (block the holes)?

I'm going to try that tonight hopefully and see how it feels. It just felt so much sharper in response and power last time I booted it, could be shit fuel for all I know too. Could be severe engine/turbo wear !! Who knows.. will try blocking off the hoses and see how we go.

Received mine today, can't wait to put it on, I remember someone posting in this thread some installation instructions for a R33, can anyone remember what page they were on before I look through them all? Thanks

Dezz have you taken the solenoid out of the loop entirely, tried disconnecting the plug and taking off the hoses (block the holes)?

I'm going to try that tonight hopefully and see how it feels. It just felt so much sharper in response and power last time I booted it, could be shit fuel for all I know too. Could be severe engine/turbo wear !! Who knows.. will try blocking off the hoses and see how we go.

The solenoid is bypassed as both hoses are disconnected and 1 blocked up...even still, its always grounded....and I tried it with the plug disconnected anyway, but get the same result every single time...

Dezz, that's McOdd... we had a half similar issue with a mates car that wouldn't respond to the low boost solenoid bypass mod but this boost tap fixed it. Weird that yours is still acting dual stage. Sure there's not another controller present somewhere else? A lot of cars coming out to Aus are not 'entirely' returned to stock when they are put through compliance. The mate in question found he has a high flowed turbo and a chipped ECU 0_0 Bastard!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...