Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

they have steel wheels, otherwise standard :huh:

only GTR standard turbos that are steel exhaust wheels are, N1 or nismo turbos. the R32 R33 R34 are all ceramic exhaust wheels.. unless they are a N1 or A/M set. :D

i fitted one to the S14 today need a gauge for it.. so waiting till end of the week.

mark sent me mine in around 3 working days from payment.. quite quick.. :wacko:

maybe groper's referring to the fact that he either has one of the 'factory' steel wheel turbo's or he's had the ceramic ones replaced with steel wheels... possibly...

ok like the 100 other posts before. i purchased one of these boost controllers. i already have a gfb valve already set up on the car and was installed by the previous owner. could someone give me a quick run down of how to install the new boost controller in replace old the gbf, is it just a straight up swap.. disconnect the hoses from gfb then connect them to the turbo tech one?? or is there any change or extras i need to be concerned with. im installing it asap so any imediate help would be awesome!

thanks

jake

so anyone posting a DIY mod for retards or what ?

mine should get in soon so i can hit up 10psi. i dont know what it will look like or how it will work bt if its shithouse on a gear change i will want to change it.

Edited by gts-4 dreamer
so anyone posting a DIY mod for retards or what ?

mine should get in soon so i can hit up 10psi. i dont know what it will look like or how it will work bt if its shithouse on a gear change i will want to change it.

Yeah man is that a question?

Look at the link in post 1449 on this page for a "DIY guide for Retards" ha ha

edit: grammer

Edited by KeyMakeR33
i run mine without the hole and have no boost problems whatsoever with it .

it spikes a bit early in the rev range but after that its quite good

post-23730-1172128480.jpg

That looks like quite a bit of a spike though 16.5psi down to 12.5, did stock boost on your car hold a flatter manifold pressure?? looks like it fluctuates quite a bit.

hey guys,

i just installed this boost controller in the other day.

it seems pretty good now that i have drilled the whole but 1 thing i dont

understand is that i wind the nut all the way up (lowering boost) yet my

boost guage shows .7bar to .75bar BUT if i was to wind it down (up the boost) my guage will show .8 .9 1 depending on how high i set it, so in other words i cant get it to stock boost.

Shouldnt it be showing .5 because the boost

is all the way down???

would this be because the controller isnt installed right or boost guage not reading right.

MODS:

cat back exhaust

pod

atmo BOV

(apexi boost guage)

any1 come across this before???

cheers

Edited by RB32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...