Jump to content
SAU Community

  

311 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Love my RZTT, it's an absolutely sensational car in almost all departments and has a real muscle car feel about when driving it. The engine is so refined, yet brutal when called for and the 6 speed box is great as well. The thing just feels bullet proof which give you piece of mind. I agree that the interior is really the only aspect of the car that is starting to show it’s age. From the outside however many people comment how they think my RZ is brand new when it’s actually a 93 model. Helps to have a good one however.

Although I love the R34's as well, they just felt more like a performance sedan rather than a sports car. Having said that, for actual track work the R34 GTR would be the sharper weapon (stock vs stock). At the end of day it really depends what you’re after.

When i was looking at purchasing a car last year, i was choosing between a Supra TT and an R34 GTT. Supra's look great and so do R34's but when i sat in a Supra... EEEk.. hated the interior. Just so uncomfortable, felt cluttered. I tried the R34.. so much more room and felt so comfortable.. so bought a R34 instead!!

I still check out Supra's when they drive by but i love my R34 more.

m2c ;)

Does it matter whether it's a 1994 or a 2000 build date?

well ye, i want one with low k's and if u get a late model supra there r some minor changes with aesthetics. Also knowing u have a 97 RZ instead of a 93 is a good feeling.

well ye, i want one with low k's and if u get a late model supra there r some minor changes with aesthetics. Also knowing u have a 97 RZ instead of a 93 is a good feeling.

OK then. I would guess that most MKIV Supras already in Australia have been brought in as cheaply as possible - i.e. older. You best bet for a newest possible model is to import under SEVS.

If you think importing is a bit chancy use an importer like SVI:

http://www.svi.com.au/

Who will import it for you, then there's no risk of the car you pay for not being able to be complied.

Depends on what models we are talking, if a later model RZ 6SPD, say 96+ then most definately the supra. I own an rb25det already and know its potential and limits, the 2JZ far exceeds these and is a next step up in my opinion.

But an older non upgraded brakes etc version then the 34 most probably because of age.

  • 2 months later...

I own an R34 GT-T with an R33 GTR motor in it, but i sell these cars for a living. The R34 is a far more apealing car in terms of looks, styling etc. but performance wise and durability, the 2JZ is far better than the RB25. If you were comparing to a R33 GTR i would probably go for the GTR just because 1 its a GTR and 2 i am a nissan man, never owned anything but a nissan. Also the driving/seating position in the supra is pretty crap, you sit down too low, cant see over the bonnet properly (btw i am 6ft1) and you have heaps of blind spots due to the design of the hatch.

Take the supra, better quality car all round but make sure you go for the 96 model with the bigger brakes, better interior, recaro seats, 17" wheels yada yada yada we have one for sale at the moment for just over $30k immaculate 6spd with sexy work wheels. check it out if you're interested (kamikaze motors, nunawading, vic)

i would choose a R34 GT-T for sure but thats mainly cause i love skylines and also supras are becoming very common nowadays so i would rather something you dont see so often hence the R34

well ya hardley ever see them in perth anyways

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...