Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posting the same diagram isn't going to help, Grab a multimeter and go and check it. You will notice 2 plugs coming off the box that houses the tps, one is the throttle valve which is off or on as you have posted a digram for and one is the tps (a variable signal funnily enough) which you have missed altogether.

The problem with refering back to workshop manuals without actually knowing what your talking about is you tend to get it wrong.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posting the same diagram isn't going to help, Grab a multimeter and go and check it. You will notice 2 plugs coming off the box that houses the tps, one is the throttle valve which is off or on as you have posted a digram for and one is the tps (a variable signal funnily enough) which you have missed altogether.

The problem with refering back to workshop manuals without actually knowing what your talking about is you tend to get it wrong.

Before making reference to what you think I do and don't know...how about you go back and read exactly what I typed and then look carefully at both pictures. You will notice the first one which was for the throttle valve switch, you replied by saying that it was in fact the sensor that I wanted or was refering to. You will also notice the second picture which is, in fact, of the TPS. Then, here's the exciting part, when you look carefully....you see that I said YOU WERE RIGHT and I WAS MISTAKEN. I hope the letters were big enough for you to read and please don't assume that I know nothing as I simply misread the manual when I read it the first time.

Before making reference to what you think I do and don't know...how about you go back and read exactly what I typed and then look carefully at both pictures. You will notice the first one which was for the throttle valve switch, you replied by saying that it was in fact the sensor that I wanted or was refering to. You will also notice the second picture which is, in fact, of the TPS. Then, here's the exciting part, when you look carefully....you see that I said YOU WERE RIGHT and I WAS MISTAKEN. I hope the letters were big enough for you to read and please don't assume that I know nothing as I simply misread the manual when I read it the first time.

Sorry mate, i got it wrong.

My appologies. Turns out i cant read.

Once again, sorry about that.

I thought you had reposted the original diagram and sarcastically stated that i was right and you were wrong (fairly typical of some of the people on NS.com) which pissed me off as i thought you were attacking my knowledge so i returned the favour.

Sorry again.

Dave

K guys, when you're done making up..... :P (jokes)

I did a lotta stuffing around with knock sensors igniter modules, discovered F**k all.... Did some more toying with timing and stumbled across a massive improvement.

Until now my crank angle sensor has been sitting in almost 'fully advanced' position, but only been showing about 15deg with a timing light, and the whole thing of hugely retarded under load as you've read already.

I know it immediately seems as if that's obviously the problem (CAS positioned fully advanced) but it was showing very reasonable moderate timing none the less. No-one had moved it because it was showing a decent amount of timing and the only direction left to turn it was anti-clockwise or more retarded... yes?

Anyway, out of curiosity/frustration/boredom we loosend it off and turned it (anti-clockwise) to about centre, tightened it up and took it for a lap of the block.

Much to my surprise there was instantly MUCH more bottom end response, power and pull...

Not knowing where the timing was actually at (no timing light) meant taking it a little easy, but it was clear there was huge change.

Today, back on the dyno it's making 170rwkw with about 17psi (fluctuating bleed valve gayness) only spiking as lean as low 12's afr and ramping on very hard.... from 40kw @ 60kph to 140kw @ 100kph then on up to 170kw.

But, at idle timing is showing 30deg with 20deg under load.... I'm confused???

I understand that previously it may have been so advanced the knock sensors were making the ecu back timing off to 10deg retard under load for engine safety sake, but it doesn't change the fact that we turned it nearly halfway anti-clockwise and now it's showing double the timing at idle?

Is there something playing silly buggers with me? can some part or area be giving false readings? I mean we're talking about markings etched into pulley wheels that have key ways to ensure they only go on in one position, how can there be any discrepency?

I'm stoked... it's nearly all sorted, but I'm spewin cos I'm confused as!

any chance the ecu is consult capable? would help the cause tremendously as u can then reset ecu, then log rpm/afm/timing and easily notice any drop in timing when the knock sensor registers a knock and puts in on the heaps retarded map. if its tuned ecu, then perhaps this retarded map is indeed retarded (pun intended) - ie perhaps the fuel map if there is a seperate knock fuel map, is a really lean map and thus there is your problem.

this of course doesnt help if the static ignition timing isnt right (the ecu tune probably would not have accounted for far advanced static ignition timing, so maybe that is a further issue.

Cam timing has been checked and double checked...... no teeth out, all sweet.

TPS..... how does one tell exactly where "right" is?

Consult Plug..... unfortunately not. apparently the early models (mine 89) do not have the plug, tho i REALLY wish they did.

Knock sensors are back in fine.

EBC goes on monday, hopefully improves things a bit, then just some fine tuning for those last few kw and safeness.

"If it works, why fix it?"

the timing is happy where it is, I just don't understand.

consult would still only read assuming that static ignition timing is correct (it has no way to know if its not). if u didnt have remapped ecu then id just try pick up an ecu from a 91+ r32 if this is compatible, then u can wire a consult plug in (just get one from wreckers, might not even charge u for it). but depends how much u want consult (but its very useful), and whether theres any other issues with it

K guys, when you're done making up..... :( (jokes)

I did a lotta stuffing around with knock sensors igniter modules, discovered F**k all.... Did some more toying with timing and stumbled across a massive improvement.

Until now my crank angle sensor has been sitting in almost 'fully advanced' position, but only been showing about 15deg with a timing light, and the whole thing of hugely retarded under load as you've read already.

I know it immediately seems as if that's obviously the problem (CAS positioned fully advanced) but it was showing very reasonable moderate timing none the less. No-one had moved it because it was showing a decent amount of timing and the only direction left to turn it was anti-clockwise or more retarded... yes?

Anyway, out of curiosity/frustration/boredom we loosend it off and turned it (anti-clockwise) to about centre, tightened it up and took it for a lap of the block.

Much to my surprise there was instantly MUCH more bottom end response, power and pull...

Not knowing where the timing was actually at (no timing light) meant taking it a little easy, but it was clear there was huge change.

Today, back on the dyno it's making 170rwkw with about 17psi (fluctuating bleed valve gayness) only spiking as lean as low 12's afr and ramping on very hard.... from 40kw @ 60kph to 140kw @ 100kph then on up to 170kw.

But, at idle timing is showing 30deg with 20deg under load.... I'm confused???

I understand that previously it may have been so advanced the knock sensors were making the ecu back timing off to 10deg retard under load for engine safety sake, but it doesn't change the fact that we turned it nearly halfway anti-clockwise and now it's showing double the timing at idle?

Is there something playing silly buggers with me? can some part or area be giving false readings? I mean we're talking about markings etched into pulley wheels that have key ways to ensure they only go on in one position, how can there be any discrepency?

I'm stoked... it's nearly all sorted, but I'm spewin cos I'm confused as!

The timing check wire, which is part of the ignition module loom, needs to have the inductive pickup on a certain way. If you turn it around it will show massively advanced and then swap it back and it will show correct timing. For some reason mine doesn't do it but every other 32 and 33 that I have ever checked does this. Also make sure you get your idle right when setting timing. Set you cam angle sensor at the half way mark, then adjust your idle down to 650-750 RPM, re-check the timing and set from there. Try to use the idle adjustment to fine tune the timing angle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...