Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking for Brake Specialist Shop

3R1K

By 3R1K,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Boostzor Grand Master

Boostzor

Posted
Posted

Found bendix fade a bit too much, yes the ultimates or premiums or whatever they call em now.

Really liked "Green Stuff" by EBC and hear that u cant go past race brakes RB26's which are well priced too. I think both of those pads are semi organic.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

My personal favourite is Endless SS-S, low dust, great initial bite, progressive and rated to 500deg C, so not likely to fade on the street. Oh, and they wont chew the ass out of your rotors either. I have also found project Mu are pretty good, not quite the same intial bite as endless, but otherwise on a par. I have also tried bendix and greenstuff, didnt think alot of them (personally), better than stock though, but dusty and seemed to wear rotors like there is no tomorrow.

your brakes will perform ALOT better with good pads than if you upgrade and use normal pads, (I went from stock SR20 brakes with project Mu pads to stock R32 brakes, and the SR20/project Mu combo pissed on the stock R32 setup) Once I fitted endless pads it was a different story though. Good brake pads are an excellent upgrade.

I would recommend getting the best you can afford, what price your life? cheap insurance and alot more fun driving the car.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I don't think it's your Ultimates that fade. I've never experienced fade in my Skyline and that's all I've used so far. I've been to about 10 track days and as everyone around my area and on this site can attest, I drive my car hard.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

there are more factors to whether or not a brake pad will fade than just the pads, tyres, driving style, how tight the track is etc.

Your pads are obviously ok for how you use them, but not in Boostzor's case. I have know other people that have had fade on ultimates (so they told me), even though I didnt get it.

Alot of variables.

Boostzor Grand Master

Boostzor

Posted
Posted

Yeh if the rotors are bigder they are going to dissapate more heat, so if they are thin they fade faster. When i had them they were on a jza70 and the rotors were about half way done. After 3 hard brakes u could feel it fading.

As steve said though, EBC ab RB chew rotors good. Too bad the endless are so expensive.

sexzila Veteran

sexzila

Posted
Posted

I would recomend do it youself or get one of your friends to do it Erik.

Just got back from the place in Bayswater (no name)......whata bunch of cowboys.....

They frucked one of my wheel nuts and their reasoning was " who did your wheels before" and that is after they takend them off , put them back on, and took the car to do the alignment....

.....and then they had decency to tell me its ware and tare..........dick****fiths.........:cheers:

All that: for them to tellme there is nothing wrong with my car.......

Well I get to the breakes now. I ask them why is one of my brake pads bent inside after I replaced them ....... and the guy tells me we are specialists but I don't know!!!

Whata???

So after spending so much money on different barke specialists that know fruck all...

Wheel alignment specialists......same......fruck all.....

So much for pro help.....

I have decided from now on, even with not much time these days I am doing it myself.....

Read the forums guys, ask for the manual if you need one, I have one, so does Paul and few more other people. DIY!!!

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Boostzor, endless may be a bit pricey, but stack up well against others when you consider the money you save in not having to replace your rotors so often - more rotor = better brakes :rofl:

Abo Bob, bigger rotors can make a difference, both in thickness and diameter, as can the design. Take for example the 'roo paw' (or whatever its bloody called) design of DBA rotors - they spent alot of time and effort trying to improve the cooling efficiency of the rotor. Then you have the material that the rotor is made of which also makes a difference.

If you have aftermarket/upgraded rotors, there could definately be a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...