Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wanted to ask a quick question or two...i was wondering if any skyline owners with a RB20DET uses ever travels a fair distance (being at least over a 100km)...what is considered a safe speed to sit on engine wise?....i was just wondering because i sometimes drive my R32 over 240km distance like 4 times a year and i sit on a speed where the engine is revving around 4.5 - 5 revs...is that safe for RB engines?....comments would be apreciated

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74256-how-much-can-a-rb-engine-handle/
Share on other sites

i drove from melb to queensland...

sat on 110-115 km/h for 2-3 hours straight for most of the time

sometimes up a hill with a full car (read: fridge, books, all my belongings plus me and my g/f) i would sit on full boost for 10secs while i climbed a hill

the good old rb20 didn't miss a beat! :)

Warren.

what did you guys sit on?

I did a day trip 4 hours to, and 4 hours back.. sitting on 120km/ph most of the way

they are made for the track bro, they can handle heaps of shit b4 they get mad at ya! lol

120 was my slowest speed when i was on the freeway, and yeah same as the other guys, didnt miss a beat..

the only real time she used fule was when i was on boost! playing games with fords!! lol

kezza

Just did a re-calculation - more like 160 / 175, don't see a problem, used to do that and much more here in the other States in the '60s and 70s,for long distances, when it was legal, and those cars held together. RBs should do it easily.

yeah the car was doin around the 160+ mark at those revs. i was just a bit worried that sitting on this speed with a turbo engine being only a 2litre might not be good for the RB...however the engine did cope pretty well and at sometimes i would get carried away and hit 180km/h.

I drove my rb25 100klm each way return for 9 months in the NT, sitting just below the rev limiter at 190 for 1/2 hour each time. Also drove the car the 4500klm to get there....no problems except finding 98 octane :)

Cut wire 52 on the computer. Should be a green wire with a yellow trace or a yellow wire with a green trace....can't recall, it's been ages. Make sure you put a switch on it so you can exit from Hicas diag mode when you need to.

Cut wire 52 on the computer. Should be a green wire with a yellow trace or a yellow wire with a green trace....can't recall, it's been ages. Make sure you put a switch on it so you can exit from Hicas diag mode when you need to.

just a warning...

when i tried this wire 53 cut, i had issues with stalling when cold at low rpm

why? don't know...

problem went away when i re-connected the wire!

Warren.

Hi, I once did a trip where I sat on 140 kms an hour for 4 hours solid - just cruising with no excessive acceleration and achieved 10kms a litre, not bad for an rb20det!

Like most cars it can handle high revs if the cooling system is in good nick, my car has been on several track excursions where it gets a 'good' workout over a 10 min period then a 30-40 min cooldown and the temp gauge has never moved from the normal position it sits on and has always idled perfectly after those runs.

yeah the car was doin around the 160+ mark at those revs. i was just a bit worried that sitting on this speed with a turbo engine being only a 2litre might not be good for the RB...however the engine did cope pretty well and at sometimes i would get carried away and hit 180km/h.

:werd: i was doin between 160 and 180 for a good 30 mins with revs around 4500 rpm on the way to wollongong from liverpool , heaps of hills and the way down as like :headspin:

:werd: i was doin between 160 and 180 for a good 30 mins with revs around 4500 rpm on the way to wollongong from liverpool , heaps of hills and the way down as like  :headspin:

but then again mines 2.5L but same shit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...