Jump to content
SAU Community

Opinions on used R33 deal


Recommended Posts

Hey,

I've been looking for a R33 and found one in Canberra that seems OK. Its a 96 GTST with 63 000kms, alarm, airpod, exhaust, & in exc. condition. The only negative is it seems a bit expensive-$22 800 w/ 12mnths rego, and after trading in my car-93 Laser w/190 000kms. Any ideas whether this is a resonable price from a dealer? I was thinking that if I looked in Sydney/Melb I could get the same deal for around $20 000.

Here's the link:

http://hallauto.carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/De...lias=hallautoau

Any opinions appreciated!

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I suggest you look much harder.. You can generally pick them up for about 17k-19k.. So i suggest you look n look, till you find something cheaper.. OR bargain wit him.. go cash in hand.. n bring the price down to 19k or something..

Look in forsales section n see how much they genrally go for..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ohh just looked at the link you posted up.. hmm its a series 2.. well in that case, about 20k should sound rite.. does it come wit warranty??? hmmm maybe even try private sales.. could cost you less..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

canberra ones will generally be a little more than sydney, melbourne and brisbane due to not as many being around (well some would say) if you want cheaper go to sydney but S2's are still worth a bit more maybe not that much i would think maybe 19 - 21ish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for your thoughts guys. I was pretty close to a deposit on Monday, but now thinking I'll wait a bit and see if the dealer will budge on price. I had another look at the car, and the windscreen seals are peeling back, and the rear wheels have a bit of outside wear (perhaps they are rotated from the front and it needs an alignment?), so I think I'd prefer the dealer to fix them in the price--I'd rather not buy a S2 and have to pay for other stuff before I think about wheels etc. Otherwise, I'm going to Melbourne next weekend so I'll have a look there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
    • If this, then this You can't really get away without it. There are hacks that you can do in Nistune, but things are much easier with the sensor than without it. If you're not planning to Nistune the ECU, then stop right now and add it to your plan anyway, because the ECU is going to shit the bed over the missing ABS and TC computers that it expects to see, and you need Nistune to stop it chucking all its toys over the side of the crib.
    • hey guys, so ive done a complete +t conversion using mostly stock parts on my rb20de neo r34.  Im wanting to know if a boost pressure sensor is needed? Seems like the engine cuts out when i try to do a pull and I have a feeling its because a boost pressure sensor is missing. I'm using a stock r34 rb25det neo ecu.
×
×
  • Create New...