Jump to content
SAU Community

Drilling holes in air box?

JH32

By JH32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

macka Veteran

macka

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Strich9ine

hehe, wat can I say... I love the pssshhht.. but my blitz bov is ghey :rolleyes:

K&N POD it is i think.. with some heatshielding aircon crap :rolleyes: DONE.

When I start construction i'll let you know james :rolleyes:

Hey id give anything to stop that bloody sound!

oh and as for the ducting the aircon stuff folds inside out at about 160kmhr on the strip.

And i wouldnt worry too much about what material u use for a CAI i am gunna use alluminium sheet with a perspex lid :rolleyes:

Ur basic mission is to force cold air up and keep it in there will holding hot air out....So its not really a matter of what material u use as a partition......

Thats what my mum told me anyway. :D

slip Mentor

slip

Posted
Posted

or you could do what i've done...

cut most of the top of the airbox off, just leaving the outer edge that clamps the panel filter to the bottom half on the air box. Then, mount it vertically behind the left headlight using ducting back to the turbo/throttle body. sucks coldish air because its only sucking from the front. k&n panel filter. cheap as, panel filter was free, $10 for piping. had the zip ties already :D

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by macka

i am gunna use alluminium sheet with a perspex lid :rolleyes:

Yeah I like that idea .... I was actually reading a magazine article the other night about the GRACER "GTR" and he has a perspex lid on his cold air box ..... looks joy :D

Hicks Mentor

Hicks

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by GR33DyMANGO

haha.. this is way off topic but this reminds me of the time when homer from the simpsons puts 'speed holds' in the bonnet of his car with a pitch fork.. haha...... :bahaha:  

ps. i luv the induction sound.

Ha ha, that episode is on right now!!

It ain't up to that bit yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...