Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 cooling issues

Josh

By Josh,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
Posted

:flamed: This problem has me a little worried and confused... I just got my new car, R32 GTS-t (HOORAY!) and it is overheating :P , at first it wouldn't do it all the time, but now it does... its an 89' and has done 84000 k's. It doesnt feel down on power, doesn't blow smoke or have water coming from the exhaust, no coolant in oil, or bubbles in coolant. It will get really hot sometimes...which has me very concerned :warning: ... but then it will drop all of a sudden... which makes me think it is a f***ed thermostat. I know i shouldn't drive it, but i have to get to work, I get the car into speedworks on monday so they should diagnose the problem... hopefully. What do you guys reckon it could be?

Also, after the cooling issue is sorted of course, what do you guys reckon I should do to the car first? front mount, suspension, brakes... It already has an HKS pod and Kakimoto exhaust... the rest is stock... i think

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74818-r32-cooling-issues/
Share on other sites
Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you have beed air out? top of intake manifold on rb20/25

Is that the little screw with a yellow "never open when hot" label on the inlet manifold closest to the front end of the car? What do I do, just take it out and put it back in or do I have to run the engine with it off?

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dammit! Shes a still gettin hot. I took the bleed valve off last night, then went for a burn, it was good, then the heat just started to rise, so I limped home hoping it wouldnt get too hot. Thanks for your help anyway GDZ1LA :( Anyone else have any ideas.

Still I may not have done it right and GDZ1LA could be right. Any help welcome.

Jax Collaborator

Jax

Posted
Posted

9.5 times out of 10, if you're not using water, of have none of the other symtoms you say you've checked, you have a partially blocked radiator core. To flush it properly, needs a bit of explanation. Needs to be "reverse flushed." Take it to radiator repairer. They have right equipment and shpuld'nt be very costly. If you MUST do it yourself, I'll [reluctantly] try to write a fair description.

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is all good news as far as im concerned... they are minor repair/replace jobs compared to replacing a head or gasket.. cheaper too. By all rights if I had a cracked head/ or gasket damage, i'd be experiencing a major lack of power right? as well as milky oil, possibly steamy, smokey exhaust yeh?

Jax Collaborator

Jax

Posted
Posted

To do it right, reverse flushing in car takes a bit of explaining, so I thought, seeing it's so easy to remove radiator, why not do that, turn it upside down, and use as much water pressure as you can, from bottom to top, allowing the water to escape, alternatively, from the filler neck, and the top hose connection point. That would do a pretty good job.

Put the water hose in the bottom radiator hose point, and seal it as much as possible, so that all the pressutr water has to travel up through the core to get to top tank. This is the opposite direction of flow to when radiator is in car, which is why it is more effective in removing blockages than flushing top to bottom.

J_R32 Experienced

J_R32

Posted
Posted

ahHHhhh HUH!! mine is doing that as well! the temp gauge is reading just a bit above half, is this actualli normal/acceptable? it never rises above this point and isnt using any water, even after lots of hard driving, so would this be just a partially blocked radiator i presume?

just dont like looking at it so high , when my bro's R32 is reading below half!

thanks for any advice guys.

ps- josh what colour if your 32? seems like there is quite a R32 "population" explosion in perth ;) mines black coupe, and black sedan for my bro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...