Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Underneath the dash just on top of the clutch there is a bracket that holds the clutch. When i push the clutch in you can actually see it moving is this a big problem? Can somebody plz look and see if there bracket moves or is mine screwed? And whats that bracket called, i need to source a new one and is it hard to change do i need to remove the whole dash? Im told beacuase I have a heavy duty clutch thats why it came loose to much stress. And would anybody have an average price on what its worth.

Same here. I have a heavy twin plate and it ended up mangling the bracket so far the clutch pedal sat on the fire wall and I had to pull it up with my foot first to press the clutch in.

Apparently a common prob with heavy pedal effort clutches.

Not sure with your car but with the HR31 its made from thin metal with just a few spot welds here and there. Got another one out of a Pintara and it was welded up properley with extra plate steel reinforcement. I would just get one in good nick from a wrecker and reinforce it as it will only happen again.

The dash didnt "have" to come out but it was of those " get out you f@cking little c@nt of a thing" type of jobs.

It's a common occurance, I have broken the one in the R32GTST race car. It has an OS Giken twin plate in it, so not excessively heavy. Broke through the spot welds. The first sign was long pedal, needed to be depressed further to declutch. It just got slowly worse until no clutch.

Not only is it hard to get out, it is efen uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....:headspin:

yer mine snapped as i pulled into work....luckily.

Looking back i replaced the clutch master cylinder, and the pedal was squeeking inside the car. Thought nothing of it. Clutch then seemed to play up now and then in car parks, thought nothing of it. Then i remember some clunky gearchanges, thought it was the gb cos it needs bearings.

Then as i pulled into work, i heard a small pop. Then 2 seconds later, it popped again and the clutch went to the floor. :D

Now i got a new clutch pedal box sitting here ready to go in. I was going to make a new pedal box out of some thicker 3 or 5mm steel, but ill just reinforce the new pedal box with steel around the 4 spot welds that hold it together !!!

No. Two bolts in engine bay on Clutch master cylinder. Then one looking straight up from the clutch pedal. You need a pillow or something on to lie on, then look up where the clutch pedal is..........SK described it exactly :

Not only is it hard to get out, it is even uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....

I'll tell you as well what makes the whole process a heap easier ...

If you don't use the air vent near the drivers door much, just rip out the tube underneath the steering rack (or maybe it goes over, I can't remember as I pulled it out so long ago).

It makes the whole procedure so much easier as you can get to the nut on the pedal box with a socket and an extension :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...