Jump to content
SAU Community

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET? Xpert help plz!

KRiMiNaL
 Share

Recommended Posts

KRiMiNaL Community Regular

KRiMiNaL

Posted
Posted

Underneath the dash just on top of the clutch there is a bracket that holds the clutch. When i push the clutch in you can actually see it moving is this a big problem? Can somebody plz look and see if there bracket moves or is mine screwed? And whats that bracket called, i need to source a new one and is it hard to change do i need to remove the whole dash? Im told beacuase I have a heavy duty clutch thats why it came loose to much stress. And would anybody have an average price on what its worth.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

Same here. I have a heavy twin plate and it ended up mangling the bracket so far the clutch pedal sat on the fire wall and I had to pull it up with my foot first to press the clutch in.

Apparently a common prob with heavy pedal effort clutches.

Not sure with your car but with the HR31 its made from thin metal with just a few spot welds here and there. Got another one out of a Pintara and it was welded up properley with extra plate steel reinforcement. I would just get one in good nick from a wrecker and reinforce it as it will only happen again.

The dash didnt "have" to come out but it was of those " get out you f@cking little c@nt of a thing" type of jobs.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

It's a common occurance, I have broken the one in the R32GTST race car. It has an OS Giken twin plate in it, so not excessively heavy. Broke through the spot welds. The first sign was long pedal, needed to be depressed further to declutch. It just got slowly worse until no clutch.

Not only is it hard to get out, it is efen uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....:headspin:

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

yer mine snapped as i pulled into work....luckily.

Looking back i replaced the clutch master cylinder, and the pedal was squeeking inside the car. Thought nothing of it. Clutch then seemed to play up now and then in car parks, thought nothing of it. Then i remember some clunky gearchanges, thought it was the gb cos it needs bearings.

Then as i pulled into work, i heard a small pop. Then 2 seconds later, it popped again and the clutch went to the floor. :D

Now i got a new clutch pedal box sitting here ready to go in. I was going to make a new pedal box out of some thicker 3 or 5mm steel, but ill just reinforce the new pedal box with steel around the 4 spot welds that hold it together !!!

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

No. Two bolts in engine bay on Clutch master cylinder. Then one looking straight up from the clutch pedal. You need a pillow or something on to lie on, then look up where the clutch pedal is..........SK described it exactly :

Not only is it hard to get out, it is even uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted

I'll tell you as well what makes the whole process a heap easier ...

If you don't use the air vent near the drivers door much, just rip out the tube underneath the steering rack (or maybe it goes over, I can't remember as I pulled it out so long ago).

It makes the whole procedure so much easier as you can get to the nut on the pedal box with a socket and an extension :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...