Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can answer this question, i just finished installing my hks type 1 turbo timer, which has an automatic timer on it. It actually gets the countdown from the rpm, if you read up on it, it goes up and down depending on what rpm you have it on. Say u flog it for five minutes, and then sit in traffic for 2 minutes the auto timer function may say something along the lines of 30seconds. I assume u did not install the turbo timer. and i commend u on that. it was a painful job esp when u have to splice into the ecu wires :P

Does it display ur speed etc??

anyways, hope this has helped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75062-turbo-timer/#findComment-1378235
Share on other sites

its not that hard to connect the other wires up, just need to have pateince, and take your time doing it to make sure its done correctly. Im surprised the automatic timer function works :s ... mine didnt until i connected the rpm sensor into the ecu. I have all the wiring diagrams if you want one just ask me.

leave ur email address on here, and ill send u the pdf file ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75062-turbo-timer/#findComment-1381191
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Damm TT's!

I fear even adding to thread like this for fear or retrobution from yall hardcore racers Ha!

Ma only two cents, is that most of the "auto" ones ( i think) listen for a pulse on the +12v indicating fireing of coils. Most then have a facility to fine tune. So you hold the RPM at a specific point, it listens to the noise, then it multiplies this, so it knows the rough RPM at a point in time.. without the need of a feed of another signal.

- M

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75062-turbo-timer/#findComment-1462322
Share on other sites

to answer your question re: what needs to cool down. the exhaust wheel of the turbo and the turbo charger components get very very hot under operation and even hotter under extreme operating, ie lots of boost constantly. the turbo timer allows the turbo to keep spinning as the exhaust is still going. this means the oil and water lines are still flowing so oil and water is flowing around the bearings and core to cool it down. if you just turn it off instantly the oil and water lines stop and the bearings stop spinning. its a bit of a if and um topic really you dont have to have one you can just take it easy for the last minute or so of the journey if you are driving hard. trucks run lots of heat dont use timers or anything so it should be ok in most normal conditions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75062-turbo-timer/#findComment-1462749
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...