Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As long as your still running a pull type clutch in your GTR it will fit straight in.

Where did you get your exedy clutch? I thought they were only around 2500lb of pressure on the exedys.... Regardless if DIRTgarage are running it on thier car (450rwkw+) then it should be fine in yours yeah?

I'm assuming your running a GTR?

All clutches aren't built the same(hence why Jim gets such a good rep around here) if you want a multi plate, go for it - but i think the proof is right there - DIRTgarage running the same clutch (as a drag car) with 450rwkw+

I think Paul and Stacey may be able to expand on this a little :) But they aren't selling this to make a profit, they just have it left over.

DIRTgarage is Paul&Stacey (who are selling this clutch) PM them, or wait till they reply to this thread. Sorry no number for them :D

Not sure about the oil pump - find the part number and get your local nissan dealer to order you one in?

Yes im running a R33 GTR. Do u have the number from DIRT- garage ?

One last question, would u know where i can get a n1 oil pump from and how much?

Thanx.

I put Paul and Stace from DIRTgarage aka two.06L on to Jim Berry Race Clutch to try one of his race clutches. They were looking at getting a twin or triple plate which cost big $$$ as you know. Quite simply its superb and the best value for money clutch you will ever buy anywhere. Beauty of this clutch is its a single plate, some might scoff and say a single plate can't handle high hp, well normally no but a Jim Berry single plate GTR race clutch can. Its very streetable, no rattle like multi-plate clutches and can handle high rev clutch dumps all day everyday. With two.o6L now making 411awkw and 467rwkw and now with the Mickey Thompson ET's it requires an 8000rpm+ clutch dump to get off the line without bogging down and if you've seen the 1.65 60 foot times there is not even a hint of slip and like Paul says, 2yrs of racing and its still superb.

Simply the best clutch out there as for max hp thats unknown at this stage but rest assured it can handle very high hp.

Either contact Paul/Stace or me from DIRTgarage via pm and leave your number one of us will call you.

Cheers

Yes im running a R33 GTR. Do u have the number from DIRT- garage ?

One last question, would u know where i can get a n1 oil pump from and how much?

Thanx.

Nissan , about $500

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...