Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/girls :warning:

I recently bought an Intercooler for my R33 GTS-t. I’m after piping, but I really don’t want to spend a large amount on piping. Dose anyone know were I can get a great price on piping for a R33 in Melbourne??

Now, I want to install the cooler and piping myself. I have no idea were to start, but my friend fitted his cooler on his VL turbo by himself… now can I do the same on my R33 and what tools do I need. and Yes, my mate is going to help me. Anyone knows how to install one? If so can u please give me some pointers? If some has a guide it would be ideal.

Thanks Guys

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75299-intercooler-piping/
Share on other sites

i've spoken to the guys at Monsta performance about IC piping requarding my r34, they have IC kits but are willing to seperate the piping and sell it for about $480 (IC for $280). On the topic, does anyone know if the R34 and R33 share the same piping? the guys at Monsta weren't sure wheather or not there RB25 IC piping would fit an R34.

Check out: (your going to have to email them)

http://www.monstaperformance.com/

I'm installing one myself once, like you, i find some pre-fabed piping. It not a massive job some say it can be done within a few hours, however since the IC i have is 600x300x75 im going to have to 'hack-the-crap-out-of' my front bumper, relocate the horn and generally hack anything away to get it to fit.

I don't know how to do it but I'm in the process of sources bits n pieces.

Worth checking out 'lazy-bastard'

His photo gallery shows his home job which i think is by far the best yet on these forums.

There is some threads around here showing other home jobs and pics, search around and I'm sure you'll find em

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...