Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The crank pulley of the rb25 is thinner as is the power steering pulley on an rb25 as the power steering pulley only has 3 ridges on the belt instead of 4 like with rb20 as the rb20 has a big pig of a p/s pump due to the hydraulic hicas.

I am running an rb25 with rb20 accessories atm. everything lines up, it's just a matter of replacing the belt for the P/s.

If you can check that the p/s shaft of an rb20 pump is the same as an rb25 pump you could run the aftermarket rb25 setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75398-rb-pulleys/#findComment-1384314
Share on other sites

im most probably going to be putting an rb25 PS pump in as my current one is a hicas RB20 pump but it has a bolt blocking the secondary hicas line... very dodge - upsets flow characteristics of the pump obviously

i just wanna order some lightweight pulleys - wonderin whats gonna fit

- adz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75398-rb-pulleys/#findComment-1385077
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...