Jump to content
SAU Community

Is it NECCESSARY to run RB25 Harness in R32 Rb25 swap??

604cefiro
 Share

Recommended Posts

604cefiro Contributor

604cefiro

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

My swap is 95% finished. It is a RB25DET swapped into an R32 GTS-T. Right now it is using the stock RB20 harness.

The main thing is finding a suitable computer.

For now, I am just running a Z32 QU ECU (94+ NA). I am only driving it to get around and obviously driving very carefully and NOT boosting at all.

Right now I am considering these options.

1.) Reprogramming a Z32 ecu to the specs of my motor. And wire up VVT to work.

2.) Running a stock Rb25det ecu (and ppl recommend the rb25 engine harness).

In both these options, is it required for me to run an rb25 engine harness?

What is the reason behind running the rb25 harness anyways? Can't I just wire everythign up manually?

Can anyone shed some light here :confused:

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

The R32 harness plug won't fit the R33 ECU. So at the very least you will have to buy an R33 harmess plug. From experience the only way I could buy one was with the harness attached. No import dissmantler would sell me the plug on its own, well they would, but they charged me the same as if I had bought the whole harness. So I figured I might as well use what I paid for.

You won't be able to get the VVT working without using an ECU that has the map/logic/program for it. There is no map and no output pin on the R32 ECU for VVT. Hence the need for a VVT capable ECU (eg; R33GTST). Tip, don't get an auto ecu.

The alternative is to forget the VVT, remove it, stick a pair of adj camshaft pulleys on. You will need to replace the inlet camshaft with a non VVT one. RB25DE or RB20DET inlet cams work fine, or there is aftermarket non VVT of course. Then rechip an R32GTST ECU, that's what I did (RB30/25DE) and it worked fine.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
How about reprogramming a Z32 (300zx ecu) ?

Im running a 300zx AFM etc.

Will the z32 ecu be able to be programmed with VVT??

As far as I know Z32's never had VVT, so the circuitry won't even be there in the ECU, neither will the logic/map/program. From memory (it's been a few years since I saw one) the Z32 ECU is basically the same as the R32 ECU.:P

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted

604cefiro,

Last weekend I installed an RB25DET in my R32 and wired up the RB25 loom and it runs with the factory computer. This option enables factory control of the VVT and boost solenoid etc. You can then run the RB25 power FC if you desire or a plug in Haltech (I'm told it should be available in the coming weeks), wolf etc.

Don't know what it costs to burn a new chip for the R32 RB20's down south but Chiptorque at the Gold Coast charge $600 + tuning (about $700 in total). This is about half the cost of a Power FC. All depends on your budget.

Hope this helps,

Ben

  • 3 years later...
BigC1988 Enthusiast

BigC1988

Posted
Posted

I just got my RB25DET (series 2) and I was hoping you could help me with some questions.

My Skyline is non turbo so it will be a big step with the RB25.

Now then, my first question is about the gearbox mounts, I hear they aren't the same and I will also have problems with the speedo meter. What do you know about this? Can I use the Xmember of the R33 ??

The second is about the harness, everyone that has ever swapped an engine told me that the harness is the most difficult part of the swap. Do you have the diagram of the R32 and the R33 (still can't find it for the R32) and some pointers on how this is done??

Hope to get a reply from you soon

Carlos Rudolph

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...