Jump to content
SAU Community

I dare you all..........

Tosh

By Tosh,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by RoboPope

I dont mind what you get up to in private, so long as you are not ramming it down my throat. :(:P

The greeks have a lot to answer for, Nana Mouskouri for one thing

hehehe.... we don't ram around here. Minh likes to shove it and choke people with it. Most of us are on the recieving end.

XrSiSt Grand Master

XrSiSt

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by RoboPope

thank you... sorry to raise the tone of this thread but there seems to be a much bigger GTS scene over here than in the UK. what power / mods do you all tend to run out here?

Paul

I think the majority of us over her are just looking at the

200+rkw mark.. which is basically exhaust, cooler, filter, boost

controller, computer, fuel pump.. i think thats about it.. cause any

higher will result in big $$$..

You will get the few who make it past this mark.. off the top of my

head.. Merli? 270rkw?

I'm pretty sure its the same as over there as i've read a few

UK sites which basically recommend the same upgrade options.

What are u running Paul?

We must listen to Minh.. 400hp at the lips gives quite a bruise!

:bahaha:

RoboPope Rookie

RoboPope

Posted
Posted

Mine currently has filter, exhaust, decat etc and an fcon V. it pops out a sneak over 300bhp @ .78 bar (flywheel, but im not sure how to equate that to yours) with the injectors at 90%. It has a hybrid needle roller turbo from turbodynamics but i cant raise the bost pressure enough for that to have any real effect over the standard one yet

Jan 4th its booked in for a HKS fuel pump, Tomei injectors, HKS FMIC, HKS Steel head gasket and boost controller should make a bit of a difference once the boost is cranked up a bit, shall have to wait and see.

Must admit the cost has sort of put me off doing too much more though unless i can pick up a RB26 engine with some trick internals at a sensible price

It does put a smile on my face though :( any increase in power is directly equated to increase in size and duration of smile

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...