Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you are, offset is very different to width.

for example James Vahoumis S14.5 has 40mm overfenders on the rear, his wheels hang out of the guards, with something like a -15 offset, but they are only 10s on the rear.

having dish, and hanging out of a guard doesnt always correlate to wheel width.

You picked .5" by eye, based only on the fact that they hung out of the guards too much?

C'mon, they could have just as easily been +17, then they would have been 10" instead of 10.5.

on another note, seems strange that the rears are +24 (104.6mm from wheel outer edge) and fronts -10 (120.25 from wheel outer edge). Would make more sense if it was the other way around - giving much greater dish on the rears than the fronts. (edit: as per pic above)

if u read the above post u'll find that the front offset comes to -10 im GUESSING after the 40mm spacers, hence they would be 30+ offset which yes would make much more sense...im just regurgitating what i was given...when did i ever say i based the fact they were larger because they hung out of the gaurds? :S

... and i very much doubt they are 10" and 9"...with that amount of wide body im sure there bigger...

thats where, offset will determine how much dish, not spacers. If you look at the wheels, the rears have more dish than the fronts, therefore, given they are the same wheel, it would be logical to assume that the rears are the -10, not the fronts - regardless of how much spacer there is.

by saying "with that amount of wide body im sure there bigger" i was refering that it could handle much more offset and hence bigger wheels...ie. not put some pizza cutters on with huge negative offset...

and i agree with u on the offset looking weird, but this is what wiplsh himself told me...with the front offset im sure he meant the offset came to -10 once the spacer was put on...because yes there would be a ridiculous amount of dish if it was -10 on a 9" wheel...

"I think i got the offset written around the right way."...he may possibly have written it around the wrong way lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...