Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Befor anyone gets upset i have serched and spent many hours on the net looking and got no where.

Im after a plastic frount bumper an after market one,

I have a R33 gts-t and have the origanl M-spec one on at the moment and wish to have a plastic one due to where i live and how much abuse the origanl one can take.

So the question is where and how much to get a after market plastic frount bar in any style 400R/ trial/ do-luck any, just want to know where to get it and how much?

so if anyone has one or knows where to get one info would be great.

i have rung jetspeed and other companys but no good.

OMG U TOOL USE THE SEARCH!!! FFS OMG OMFG GG!!! lol jk

u really want a plastic one? i dont think anyone makes em anymore... most japanese brand bars are FRP - Fibreglass Reinforced Plastic

Its just as good... u can twist sideskirts around and they dont brake

If you want something like that u better have some good cash saved up.

no wait... its not FRp... whats the other one they use that twists??

plastic? :wassup:

Sorry Scott, I was in the same boat, did a bit of hunting when i was looking for a new front bar, no luck, pretty much everything is fibreglass

nope... not everything... like i said... if u want the flexible stuff then u have to PAY a lot... ie. URAS FRP bars are on average 28,000yen... Their V system which twists without cracking is 50,000+yen...

btw - the search thing was a joke...

so yes im not to shore about the exchange rate what would that be for either one in aus dollers cos i dont want the painfull job of always haveing to get the bar repainted every time i drive home on the dirt roads even going 10km still gets chiped.

thanks inark for this

generally you cant mod the original bar very easily as it sits out a fair bit more than the GTST gaurds (this is on a 32)... to fit it properly you need to fit the gaurds and indicators from a GTR like i had on mine.

you can however buy aftermarket ones made for GTSTs... however im not sure theyre made of plastic.

I would say to fit a genuine GTR bar to an R33 it would be a similar setup... gaurds, indicators and maybe even the bonnet.

yeah but was something different and well aftermarket so does anyone know where to get one of these URAS FRP bars from ?

you dont wanna URAS one for a 33... they look shocking ;)

unless u want ur car lookin like a duck ;)

http://www.uras.co.jp/syohin/skyline.html#r33

there are other brands that also use similar materials... do-luck, vertex, BN Sports...

z_33skyline_front.jpg

EDIT: scratch that just checked the site and it looks like BN is also FRP which is still better than the cheap copies we get here... but not as flexible

yep i agree so where and who do i speek to to get one of these frount bars cos im sick of talking to people like jetspeed who say "why dont you just get a fiber glass one" (i dont want a fiber glass one) so yeah

thanks inark if you have any one you know who can get one i would love to talk to them.

and $1000 is not out of the question cos it would last longer and look much better then a fiberglass one.

Could i get a mould of my Bomex Front bar and get it remade in plastic? I think it would be better to pay a little more then keep on repairing it because of driveways. I just cracked mine on a gutter last night ;)

so yes im not to shore about the exchange rate what would that be for either one in aus dollers cos i dont want the painfull job of always haveing to get the bar repainted every time i drive home on the dirt roads even going 10km still gets chiped.

dude i drive home on dirt roads for about 3kms a day, and my front bars fiberglass, and mine goes alright without huge chips and stuff, unless the roads you gotta drive down are REAL bad. plastic still gets chipped and stuff anyways, mate of mine had a plastic front bar on his lancer, still got chipped .. living in a place where there are dirt roads maybe you dont got a choice mate ;).

plus plastic is black not white like most glass bars so when the paint does chip on a plastic bar it doesnt stand out like dogs balls... especially on a dar coloured car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...