Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quick question,

For a while now I have thought I have had a dodgy knock sensor. After doing a bit of fiddling with the fuel and ignition maps on the weekend to fix up a bit of knock, I noticed my PFC hand controller is indicating knock when ever my diff locks up ( 1.5way mech.)

Has anyone else noticed this? In a straight line I was getting up to 70 knock on the hand controller, after a bit of playing around I got it down to 35, which I think is acceptable

On my way home driving through the hills, I would glance down and see 60-70 knock again, and upon closer inspection it was picking up knock when my diff locks up out of corners?

Has anyone else had the same issue?

Chris

Not me but id say,at a guess,that your diff is taking initial torque and your engine is under a stress lock momentarily.All this would come about because where teh tyres used to spin before letting the engine breathe a little b4 it now cant.

Babble!maybee.Never know it could be somthing else not the diff.But if it happened like it did when you say it did then it more than likely is the diff that is causing the knocks.

Not me but id say,at a guess,that your diff is taking initial torque and your engine is under a stress lock momentarily.All this would come about because where teh tyres used to spin before letting the engine breathe a little b4 it now does not under certain loads.

Babble!maybee.Never know it could be somthing else not the diff.But if it happened like it did when you say it did then it more than likely is the diff that is causing the knocks. :confused:

^^ what he said.

i guess your getting that little bit extra grip, before it lets go maybe?

Mine was tuned with my new diff at the same time so i have nfi!

but then, that (you would think) wouldnt matter on a dyno in 4th etc ?

interesting too see what comes of this thread indeed!

Its odd hey!

The problem is my PFC and Diff went in at the same time, so I can't compare too!

It seems strange though, as even when its not under and load, the clunks from the diff show up as knock? I have aluminum sub-frame bushes, as well as alloy tops on my suspension, I wonder if the noise is travelling through and reading as knock. Its quite loud in the car around corners etc

Bit of a wierd one!

I would posibly be load from the inside wheel and outside wheel trying to go round at the same speed, but it wouldnt be whenever the diff its self it locked up as that would happen at anytime under load, and therefore would show up on say a dyno or just straight line.

It could be a bit of a wild guess, but it could even be a fuel pump/tank/something else problem, and say the fuel moving about, or a bit of a connection or something is coming loose while cornering, and the jolts from the diff are just making it worse. As I guess less fuel would also cause knock correct? And that with the increased potential load would cause more again.

Id say if its a worry the car might be too much on the edge of the tune to start with.

Hi Chris,

Everytime my Commander registers a knock level above 15, it's between gears & off-throttle.

So I suspect my knock sensor is picking up drivetrain noise also. I'm not sure where it's coming from, but I think you may be on to something. Any tuners out there know what's up ??

a knock sensor is just a piezo microphone basically so it can certainly pick up driveline noise as well as just engine noise.

on a standard car with a standard ecu it is calibrated to tell the difference between detonation and other background noise frequencies.

once you change parts from standard its possible to introduce frequencies into the system that the sensor picks up as detonation, when it may not be.

i had my FC tuned before i put my super-clunky 2-way diff in, but the clunks never register knock to my knowledge. Especially on slow speed tight corners the clunks are very abrupt and shake the car around, but no knock. I also have the same aluminium cradle bushes.

I had a problem with spontaneous knock and thought it might be the sensors, but it turned out to be simply bad fuel. Try some mobil synergy and see if it makes any difference?

Funny you should say that, I have always run BP, and put some Mobil in last night becasue I was almost out, it doesn't seem to be as bad. I think its just a coincedence though, as I have run mobil before and 100 octane fuel and it does similar. A bit of a placebo effect I think :P

Still reckon the knock sensor is a bit dodgy. I reckon the guys are onto something with the drivetrain noise, my gearbox is getting old and has a bit of slop in the gears, so maybe its picking up that?

Either way, just ignoring the knock sensor for the time being, I know its not a tune issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...